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Your frame isn't bending unevenly. It's just that if you add more off-set (width) on one side, the rim will move half that extra width distance from the centre. As a general rule, 7 speed freewheels are OK with a bit of dishing, but 8 speed needs more dishing to get the rim central, which then...

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It'll be OK with a cassette motor.

A key feature to look out is the ability to charge while recording so that you can run it from a powerpack or your main battery, otherwise you need one with a good battery life. Also, 1080P is an absolute minimum, though you really need 2K or 4K to be able to see car number plates more than 10ft...

Why would you want to fit such a motor, when a rear hub-motor would be cheaper, more reliable, more user-friendly and have lower running costs?

Lithium batteries are lighter, cheaper and give more range. You can buy a 24v cell-pack from Aliexpress that will fit into your existing case. If it were my bike, I'd get rid of all the electrics except the motor and upgrade to 36v with a modern controller. 36v will give the bike 50% more power...

Just about every cassette motor is substantially wider than 135mm. There are thousands of bikes being ridden around with these motors, all with stretched frames. If anybody says it's bad to stretch a frame, show me one that broke because of it. When you have a disc brake, you have to fit an...

Remove all the plastic parts, then heat it up in the oven. When hot, it'll come out easily.

Charging an old saggy battery to less than 100% isn't going to end well. How are you going to ballance the cells? Have tou checker the present balance state?

I'd file the drop-outs deeper. The axle centre is now a lot lower, so your disc brake pads might be off the disc a bit now.

You need to take your bottom brackrt out, then look at whether you have enough clearance around it to slide the motor in. The thicknedss mustn't exceed 6mm anywhere around the bottom/ front - about half way round.

I solved my range anxiety by fitting a motor to the front wheel, which I use as a generator, so when the back motor pushes the bike along, the front one charges up the battery. It increases my range by 64% when using the rear motor, or it simply recharges when I'm not using power from the rear...

It looks like a toggle switch to me - maybe to switch in and out some feature, like speed limit override or throttle operation on the prototype for testing. The motor on the other bike didn't have that wire.

The error codes are at the beginning of this thread: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/my-new-fiido-d2s-won%C2%B4t-start.36545/ Flash 6 times is a motor hall sensor error. Potential cause in sequence of high to low chance: 1. Motor connector not in all the way to the marked line or other...

The story so far doesn't add up, so I must be misunderstanding something or missing some vital info. Please confirm all these points: 1. You have a Yose kit. The throttle was working fine and setup properly. 2. You crashed and damaged the throttle body. 3. You bought a new throttle of the same...

I've had to fix many bikes because the motor filled up with water when the motor was installed the wrong way up. I never had to fix one that had a damaged cable, except one that was damaged in an accident, where the damage would have bewn the same whichever way up it was. Our Chinese friends...

Is that the exact LCD you have in the picture, because Yosepower changed from KT to Lishui recently?

Your meter shows that everything is OK

It's a hall sensor, so nothing changes except when it's powered. Connect the 5v to the purple wire and ground to ground, then measure between the signal wire and ground to see if the output voltage changes when you press the lever. Some controllers, like KT and Brainpower, often have the...

That wiki is completely out of date. The word "continuous" has been removed from the regulations. Again, I'm not sure what your point is. I know and understand the regulations. It was me that explained to you that you weren't limited to 14A and 36v for your ebikes 9 years ago.