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Black is never anything other than ground. That only leaves two posibilities, one of which will work and one won't.

Show photos of how you've set your meter and where you're measuring.

The battery doesn't have a motor wire! I think you need to show photos of what you're doing. Nothing makes sense.

I'm not sure what you're point is. Let's start again. They use torque as a figure to compare the assistance with these different crank motors. It's an arbitary figure, calculated in some weird way so that they can compare. Bosch 40 Nm feels OK. It's a bit weak for heavy people and/ or steep...

Plug the connector in, switch on, then measure the red and black. It should be 5v or thereabouts.

Switch the battery on and measure the voltage on the two outer terminals.

Re-celling will probably be more expensive than buying a new one. You can buy better ones now with more capacity. Do a search for 24v Silver Fish battery. A direct replacement is about £150, but you should be able to get one with 50% more capacity (15Ah) for not a lot more. Note that there's a...

There's another thread that's been running on this for a couple of days.

Why do you need a timer if you're partial charging?

It's the pedal sensor. You take off the left side crank arm and clip it in to the bottom bracket spline. It only fits on cranks with standard Shimano-type BBs with a square taper shaft. Also, it's usless if you don't have an LCD, bit if you do have an LCD, a pedal sensor is very useful.

Doesn't look like a light.

Come on, What school did you go to? The wheel rotates at a speed in radians per second in direct proportion to road speed - unless it's icy. In other words, for the same size wheel, the radians per second will be the same at 25km/h whether its a 40Nm, 60 Nm, 80Nm or 130 Nm torque. Power is...

Also, the Valeo kit looks about right to handle the massive 130NM torque. The Conti kit is smaller in size and torque (Conti kit has 70NM torque). Originally, Bosch was 25km/h, 40Nm and rated at 250w, then it went up to 60 NM, then 80N, still 250w! Power = torque times speed, so it's a bit...

Did you load drivers for it into your pc, and did you check that the cable was using the same com port as the software?

It's 48v, so 30% more power than a 36v one with everything else the same. I didn’t count the gears in the exploded diagram, but it looked like a lot - maybe 8 or 9 or even more. It looks very ugly compared with the version from Continental. Does anyone know why Continental packed up?

£10 here, otherwise whatever they think they can get away with. The tester is automatic, so about a few minutes to connect and deal with the print-out. https://www.ebikecapital.co.uk/bike-service/service-package/ebike-battery-test__370

Yes. You'll have to pay for the test, but if the battery is less than 80% within 2 years of purchase, you get a new one.

I never tighten mine like that. I just nip them up by hand to something like 10Nm. I've never had one come undone, and they're a lot easier to undo.

It looks very expensive and heavy. I don't think we're going to see it on many road bikes. I can imagine it's quite battery hungry too. I wonder whether there was any partnership with Continental, who did all that development, then hardly put it into production for whatever reason.