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That sounds partially promising.

Often nothing, they can be wired for comms between battery and controller or for an extra charging connection for on bike charging should the battery charge point not be accessible.

Yep wire them in series so + to - and then connect accordingly to the controller + & -. A fuse on the + side as mentioned.

The 90wh though is at 0a or 0.2a current draw, once one starts to draw current even a lowly 2a the wh usage in real world terms is a lot less. Until the spec of the battery cell is known then we can only speculate.

50km form 5ah is pie in the sky talk unless one plans on using no assist. They are known for terrible CS, I think previously they were called Panda Bikes. They are using simple maths to come by meaningless ranges. 90 wh / 10wh per mile = 9 miles. One needs to be a good regular cyclist to use...

If by recommissioning you mean the battery, the one maybe needing a new one.

Nylon temps not really but we know the Blue gear on the tsdz2 fails and we know some see 75 - 104c temps recorded internally with about 30/40c less recorded on the exterior.

If a controller is too hot to leave your hand on, it will have likely thermally cut out before then if the mosfets don't fry. Too hot then one needs to reduce the current.

Only if you like pushing the bike or it can ride ok with no power, range will be poor less then 6 or 7 miles with power so ok to pootle around very local. To know exactly one would need to know the cell specs.

At 2500mah then the cells will be 18650, 90wh isn't going to get you more then 6 - 7 miles depending on the current draw. 2500mah is the rating but for sure one won't see much more then 1750 - 2000mah form a 1p cell and it would have to be a top cell for 1p none of your flaky mediocre 5a cells...

My bills are all smart metered so pretty accurate.

Shell leave it up to the customer to set there monthly DD and one can adjust it adhoc via the web or app, so no nasty monthly outgoings which are unexpected or big shocks of a sudden overinflated monthly demand.

The best lube any chain will see is the stuff applied at the manufacturing point, after that if one cleans a chain any detergent used, white spirit, gunk or paraffin, etc,etc, simply washed out any grease/lube within the roller bushes. Replacing it will mean complete immersion for a few...

We have them here and the they are clearly posted.

If there is a dodgy mosfet one needs to do the test first to see if one is at fault.

Try your battery in your mates bike if it is ok , then the controller must be faulty and voltage regulator has had it.

In London they have the quite neighbourhood roads (ex rat runs) which were blocked by shrubs boxes /make shift barriers etc, to stop vehicular traffic during lockdown to increase safer walking and cycling activities. Now tbh we are out of restrictions and generally it appears the masses have...

Any hub system can use a TS BB & controller kit instead of cadence, the issue why most don't use them is the price at about 2.5 - 3 X that of the best cadence system control kits available which tend to be KT & Lishui.

If the display is a simple 3 spd LED model then the controller is 99.99% a speed controller, which means one will see max current/power all the time until the max speed is reached in each level. Something like 8, 12 & 15 mph. These cheap systems are common on low entry price bikes, one needs...

The switch you are buying is simply a keyed throttle with voltage readout so simply wire it to the controller wire output. The switch needs the same three specifics, Gnd, 5v and throttel Sig.