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I doubt woosh will turn you down.

One suspects something will have shorted and blown when they were cut if battery power was present. If not they can be solderd joined but it ain't going to loook pretty.

Your battery may have a low cell group and be out of balance, if any one cell group is fully charged then the bms stops the current flowing for charging so automatically the charger light will turn Green. The charger is adumb charger is simply lets the current flow if it is told to do so by the...

My take is the style and weight of these so called pedelecs means they are not suitable for the usage, despite the pedals which in use are near to useless and the 250w rating. Any battery needs to be a very good one using quality cells to maintain the 25/30a current draw and likely in all...

The tsdz is for more gentle usage then enduro use, a few on ES have snapped the crank axle by standing on them and using them hard for hill climbing. One can try and mitigate the crank axle damage by fitting an extra support bearing on each axle to remove any lateral play. The lhs one can pry...

I don't understand people moaning about the 25km/h cut off as this is what the product is designed to do, one knows this before buying so why grizzle. Ride to the cut off then power on with your own input. I do this with my G370 hub and ride to 18/20mph, yet my cut off I have lowered to 13pmh to...

Battery warranty is very suspect when bought form overseas, there is no way to send them back legally. The battery came form Aliexpress and one never knows how good they will be or what cells are used, the seller is your best point of call first for any readress. One has to bite their tongues...

I use to give info on more powerful set ups but have now stopped doing so, due to the nature of this forum/site. We do have a speed pedelec sub forum but even this does not and should not cater for motorcycles, there are other dedicated EV forums for planned power motorcycles and one should make...

This is a pedelec forum not a motorbike one, you plans fall way outside that of a so called ebike.

Brown.

For P1 you will have to use a GPS to set the figure as I not sure we have ever known the suntour gear ration for the hub. Simply set the speed limit to 25km/h on the display for setting this up and then ride with agps to match the lcd readout to the gps. If the lcd under reads raise the P1...

Come on guys a thread completely derailed by PC upgrades which have nothing to do with the topic what so ever. Why not start a fresh thread for the geeky stuff like this. I know it got a bit geeky on my TSDZ thread but it was related to the subject in question.

For a small motor I don't think one can get much better then the Bafang G370 for a front hub, it has the grunt to carry me and a laiden trailer of 80kg without an issue and that is only in using PAS1 or 2 + the bonus of riding unpowered very easily. At 1.6kg it packs a mighty punch.

LCD5 afaik has all the same functions as lcd3 & 4, so one can change the parameters in the P & C settings.

The friction drive is good for a lightweight bike where one esp rides locally. I have one such drive (Revos) on my Arkose gravel bike the whole kit is only 2.5kg and another battery allows 50m range, knobbly grippy tyres aren't an issue if one uses a specific tyre with a small treadless raised...

As sjpt has mentioned it might be a battery issue but one needs to ride the bike to see. It has a voltage read out so one can watch to see if the volatge collapses when using throttle, his saying that PAS is faster then the throttle is not correct, both PAS and throttle will give max current...

The gumtree bike might be worth a punt if you have £400 to spare and can test ride it. One needs to know exactly when and how the bike cuts out so again a test ride. The cutting could be that the set speed limit has been reached or the motors terminal rpm has been reached if the lcd speed...

8kw = 236cc, one is having a laugh. There are other motorcycle/EV sites to ask your question rather then this one.

I don't agree with the riding to max psi on paved roads, my bike rides fine with tyres at 40 - 50 psi instead of the max 80 psi.

If the battery connection is simple two wire only then one can use any generic battery of the correct voltage, however I'm not 100% sure if they haven't used a CANbus sytsem before or not on some bikes. If so any replacement will be expensive.