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Best to see what voltage they put out, test each wire to any Gnd source to see what they read and if different one assumes display is high voltage and brake is low voltage. I would expect Blue to be display and Pink for brake.

Voltage drop and sag are very different, one shouldn't confuse voltage sag that rebounds and voltage drop that doesn't, the latter is more serious and more of a guide to the battery health. One ideally needs a lcd display that registers the live voltage in use. That said if a cell sags badly...

I have never experienced this effect with rear braking so agree, it is proabably a wheel issue or a frame issue. With the frame it could be crack or maybe the movement in the dropouts ? A part from the tyre and psi, are the spokes correctly tensioned and are the bearing all good.

If I were changing to a fixed fork with a front hub then it would have to be a decent chromoly fork, a good fork is about £120/130. So something like a nice surly disc trucker or one of their various they make, If the hub is only 250w rated then one doesn't need to use torque arms.

Like you I find the revo twist type shifters much better then thumb levers, the twist ones certainly give a better clutterless bar look.

As with most bikes no bell insight, I find it one of the valuable assets to have and use on my bikes. No shouting or calling out to folks to move, two or three pings some 20 - 30 yds away to give them time to react. On all my bikes I use a Jtek stem riser brass/gold bell which has avery good...

Wiring is encased in an outer covering pvc or silicone etc ,etc, sometimes the inner wire can break causing an intermittent conection. Ignition simply needs checking that power is arriving at the contacts so gnd to + input pin. The fault also may be insdie the hub maybe a wire has broken off ?

The white connector is a automotive one, I don't know the exact number for a two wire one so you will have to do the searching yourself. The Hall wire one which is the same type but a 6 wire one is DJ7061 -2.8 -21 so my guess is you will need to search for dj7021-2.8.

41v indicates and issue either tired cells or one group is low, one should see at least 41.5v for healthy battery.

A tail of how two controllers act differently the switch a current control model and the woosh a speed control model. The woosh though is likely 20a rated whilst the switch is likely only 12 or 15a.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325067128685?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110010%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.DISCCARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D239488%26meid%3D7a5d65ce23c4425a8ae4adee4596ba75%26pid%3D101110%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D334453106296%26itm%3D325067128685%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DD...

Your bms isn't switching to allow current to flow, the reason being will be a low or duff cell group. One will have to open the battery to check the 10 cell groups or sipky buy another battery.

The £400 isn't extra though afaict, they haven't been clear in the release of this. It already includes the £150 that has meant to have been handed back via the council tax plus and another £50 as they changed it to £200, so most might see another £200 - £250 possibly. It is all abit of a pigs...

My brother has been using a Bosch speed ped for about 10years now for a 20 mile each way commute, he doesn't ride it dialy but usually 1- 3 times a week. As you have found out, to make them properly legal isn't catered for by UK insurer's but in the EU it is common place.

From the non drive side there should be an inboard nut up against the hub, if so it needs undoing. Other wise give the axle end a whack with a block & hammer or rubber mallet, water has likely rusted the inner sun gear to the motor case as eveident when one blows the pic up larger and can see a...

Check power is going into the controller and out. It may be a wire break inside the outer covering in which case one will need to try and track the culprit down or a bad solder joint. One will have to carry out lots of wire testing. The controller may be faulty, swap your spare one to see if it...

Unicycle.

From what I see fleec the changes in the HWC have had little impact, often I see instances where drivers give no thought of giving way to pedestrians or cyclists. They simply aren't very observant at all and don't even look in to the turning they are going in to, it hasn't taken long and all I...

The erider I doubt is down to a loose wire, a loose wire doesn't suddenly manage to re-attach it self. It will either be the battery or more likely the controller cutting out, if the controller got to warm then it will thermally cut as the mosfets reach/exceed their max operating temperature.

Jis is the standard used for square taper cranks arms, the tsdz2 offer up quite a wide Q factor and quite a few folks use Bafnag BBS arms as a replacement. Also one can use ebike cranks like fsa ck220 used on other ebike mid drive that use Square taper.