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Poor Bertie, he wasn't out to ambush you.

I would say so esp towing, a great stint in the saddle..

Good stuff Matt, any comments at all whilst on route ?

The mudguards are a heath job but only cost me about £20 to knock up, CF cell them but they are about £110 but are open so not a lot of protection form spray and mud.

The ply is thin enough to cramp and bend in to place before applying steam and glue. Once done and sanded Tony fibreglasses/gel coats the exterior, other wise it would simply rot away. Like wise the wheel arch's and under side are waterproofed. The inside is simply multicoated with varnish.

I didn't notice them when I ordered the G370 for the Roadrat otherwise I would have sorely been tempted to buy one. A much neater solution then the box controller. 1.56a on PAS 1 and 2.4a on Pas2 great for battery range/economy. I get about 2.5a in PAS 1 with 9 fet controller at 19a setting.

The use of pure nickel is no longer needed for spot welding over copper for interconnectors, a lot of the guys on ES have had great results using nickel plated steel in the copper sandwich method of welding and are producing stronger better welds requiring less joules and heating of the cells.

I ordered some copper sheet , 2p nickel plated steel H strip and 21700 insulator rings to day as have decided for the extra cost in total of £7 or so to go with 21700 cells. For 2p 13s the stand out cell is the moli p42 and out performs the Sam 40T by a bit. With 2p of moli's at 8.4ah, I can...

The pic was in late eve westerly sun aspect so a it of a glean from it also taken on my rubbish phone cam, in the flesh it looks nice. Yes osf I shall try and venture into, IF I can upload the programmes to my w10 laptop. I have swizz's thread saved. I'm quite interested in some of the PAS...

The explanation and fault sounds like PAS, either the disc isn't secure enough and is freely or partly rotating around it's axis or the gap to the sensor isn't 1mm or less. If any magnets are missing press in new ones.

Agree unless hammering trails fast sus isn't really needed, the extra weight multiplies the bumps where as a lighter bike with volume tyres will ride them much better. My gravel bike is approx. 15kg all up weight and runs on tubes 42mm tyres 42psi F & 48/50 psi R.

Yours uses current control which is nicer for the rider to use , it appears that CB has put the nail on the head if it uses a KT system. The riding experience is far better with current control, as you have mentioned one gets max speed in all three levels with the current/power differing. This...

Bouncy bikes are a night mare to ride as they sap your energy and waste it, for full sus one needs air suss front and rear where one cna pump them up to suit your weight to prevent the unnecessary bounce.

The bike in real affect doesn't have assistance modes the three levels are speed modes, each one having a differing max speed limit providing max current. Mostly these three speed systems are basic with no user control over how they work.

Bike frame style ?

If I decide on a new battery build I'm undecided on cells, it all depends on battery placement. There's not much in a price of cells 3p12s of 15/20a China brand good cells for £90 - £110 or 2p13s of 30a top notch 21700's for < £118.

My planned 48v new bottle style battery case won't fit in the diamond, it is far larger then I envisaged. My 12s diy bottle battery with HG2's which I use with the Cotic fits in the diamond so will see how the tsdz2 works with that and the lvc. I could mount the 48v battery on the rear flat...

No idea.

It uses a speed controller and the 3 speeds are set by the pcb of the led display.

I wanted wiser guards on my cotic rear, I fitted wider tyres but a guard wouldn't fit. I had to notch out the guard both sides to fit around the stays,