Search results

30a would be ideal.

I now wonder if it actually looks like screwdriver damage from your attempt in #212 ?

Once one feels charger heat then for sure the BMS is switched on and working , also indicated by the change in the led colour.

With that damage I would likely bin the tube and fit a new one.

They quote the maximum sustained must be 250w, that isn't correct as is the UKGov webpage. The motor has to be rated as 250w continuous power and not a maximum 250w sustained power other all bikes including bosh, yam, steps and others et al would all be illegal as they would have to have a...

That is quite some damage from an object in the tyre, not just a thorn or nail prick.

One will be fine don't forget a lot of folks use panniers on a bike as well loaded with shopping.

Whilst on the subject of velo's, motorists are up in arms as they were held up in log jam on the A64 in N.Yorks by a bright yellow velo sporting RAF roundels. The guy was smart and used road positioning to prevent most close pass attempts, the remarks left by angry motorists confirms that most...

Tony bought the plans and built from scratch ordering sheets of very thin ply, he has a back ground in small boat building so the process is a cross over from that. Here is the thread for his build is is 37 pages of chat and pics...

Voltage reduction and % used isn't linear as that tale shows so working out wh usage is a guestimate, ones needs a watt meter wired in to get a more accurate picture.

WIth diy ebikes one has to learn how to test and fault find, most technicians are only ale to say what is wrong by a computer. You will have to remind us again as I'm not going to read the whole thread again is it a kt controller and lcd ?

I would also say that one of the copper series connections if giving a false reading via an intermittent contact.

For 20 mph if the motor is wound for it, one would need a compatible lcd screen. Depends if the controller brand is Lishui or Kt, if the latter then it is easy if the led is a five wire digital one.

Its a typo and should be read 48v, 48v won't fry the motor unless the current is too high.

Red is the last cell group and main discharge though the Black needs to be equal share as well, it is est practice to do so.

Don't rush the job, get the solder flow and temp right then carry out the wire mods to the ends. All the cell voltages say they are above 3.4v per group so the BMS should switch on, double check the charge connector solders as well and the fuse on the line.

Do it in this order . 1, 3 & 2. Practice the soldering on a separate bit of wire or metal. prime the hot iron tip with 60/40 solder and then apply the hot tip to the wire and then apply the solder, if the temp is right the solder will flow nicely as a silver liquid and then once the heat is...

As indicated by the Red lines the current share will be more evenly discharged from all cells. At the mo the current has to pass through just one off tale point which means that one cell is stressed the most. This diagram shows current share better for the final discharge on the B- & B + cell...

Add a good nice flow of solder as marked by the four marks and then lay the discharge wires on top and then apply solder iron heat so the two flow together for a nice join, if need be apply more solder at the edge for the heat to transfer better.

Yes.