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That stuff is for tyres not tubes in tyres, tubes are thin and prone to not sealing due to movement. A tyre is quite thick and strong and the structure readily tends to bridge together quickly.

In that case one doesn't understand how epac power/current ratings are calculated.

UK law differs from US state laws regarding age and power usage so demographically hardly worth the plug on a UK specific forum though may be of interest to the one or two US members.

It depends what the continuous current out put of the battery is, this controlled by the BMS. The peak out put is no good it has to be continuous, then a controller kit could be recommended.

Yes you were clear and one of the few who post of going the MSVA route, my response wasn't aimed at you but in response to guerney and Ben regarding the 1000w & BBSHD mentioned. Most think that the simple restriction to 25km/h makes them legal and can by pass the set out reg's for epac's.

Most motorbikes and all cars are tubeless so this product is mainly aimed at TL tyres, with tubes you have to hope any foreign object is in out and not retained by the tyre rubber gripping the object. With most of my punctures with a foreign object I have found a broken off bit of thorn or...

Tbh I found TL a complete PITA as for complete piece of mind one still needs to carry a tube in case of a bad tyre tear/ split. As EPJ said tubeless won't seal a tyre split by flint if you are unlucky like he was once on the S/Downs. I have given up on TL as my presta's keep getting blocked and...

Unless the foreign object if still imbedded in the tyre is removed, as flecc has mentioned it will just puncture again and likely in another place.

Andy is the last person I would take advice from. All his theories are cut and paste.

The battery bars are woefully useless to gauge voltage they are an estimate and can be 25% or more out. 39.9v divided by 13 cells is nearly 3.07v per cell, one expects a or some BMS may allow charging at that overall voltage but if one cell group is much lower then no charge will be allowed as...

If the screen shuts off straight away then there is power supply issue and an interruption between the controller and display . It might be a wire issue in the 1t4 cable. Check for bent pins or misaligned pins in the connectors also use a meter and check continuation on all pins or it might be...

The Walsall and Yose are the same branded one so buy either of them. The UPP one is also the same battery but with differing branding, the other two are cheaper.

There should be no issue.

The Arkose with the Revos friction drive, bike is current and working. The Vachery at Chelwood Gate. the background is a folly of the bridge to know where. This is at Ardingly reservoir. Apart from adding the 2.5kg ekit the only other mods I did was add a 42/11t cassette and add a wolf link...

A rare piece of history - Swizzbee | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community Roadrat Alfine 8 with G370 hub build. | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community I haven't done a thread for the others. The Kona Ute is still a normal bike, the motor is on route as are the bits to mod the motor. I will be...

One can use any AH battery of the required voltage needed, AH only increases the bikes range and will usually make the battery heavier.

As I thought, it has tapped fixings and a flat section. Can one not make use of the tapped holes to fix the new battery mount . The one in #8 is the same as the yose power one, it just shows the seat post clamp better. Find a bit of 5/6mmmm ali plate the dimensions of the furo battery base...

Like Ford when I had my BBS I tweaked 5 of the PAS for less torque but speed for flat terrain and had the last 4 tweaked for out right torque but less speed for slower hill climbing. One can't have both speed and max torque, it is a trade off of one or the other. Just as a battery one can have...

A pic of the seat post with the battery holder removed ?

The UPP one Iinked to in #8 shows the bracket fixing, doe sit look like it may fit ?