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Simply put one is draining the battery with max current all the time, if one rides it like a moped what else do you expect. Unless the current has been down rated PAS 9 and throttle will be maxing out the battery, if you want range then use a lower pass and ride slower.

4. Start off in high gear will eventually cause controller failure, one needs to spin in a low gear so the strain is less from standing start. 5. Cwah left a battery on his bike all night during rain with no bike cover, it failed afterwards as it was water logged.

Do you actually have brake sensors fitted ?

If I use brake sensors I only fit one to the rear as I intuitively go for the rear momentary before the front, no matter the kit. When I had the BBS working I found two a pain in the backside because if a brake sticks then one doesn't know which one without disconnecting them to find out.

I know you have had fun before with the WASP and the trike bikes but this is taking the P**S now.

So sounds like a fun project just for the hell of it, to see if one can get it through the SVA process. If successful some fool would buy it.

Sorry WP even if it is yours, it looks crap. Beg pardon for being so blunt, but it looks like a lash up often seen on ES.

Rear foot pegs, going to have to sit on nearly like a jockey. For full effect get a riding stick and give it a whack every so often because most will say WTF anyway.

Some batteries have a sleep mode or I should say the BMS does, so one could try pressing the on button for 10 - 30 secs to see if this is so, otherwise as mentioned a proper voltage reading would be a start.

If the battery charge port is only two pin then any generic charger for the correct voltage will work as there are no extra sensing/comm's wires. As regard to the battery one needs to take a voltage reading via the outlet/diacharge pins at the base with a meter, if you haven't a meter then buy...

What the hell you playing at WP or is it not yours ?

The std BB thread is known as an English thread and yes BBS & tsdz etc,etc all utilise the English thread. The same thread is adopted by Sram, Shimano & the Octalink BB as well.

700W I barely use 120w riding my main bike and don't get out of PAS1, probably why so far I have got over 35 miles from my 288wh battery.

The BMS should balance at 4.2v each not 4.23 or 4.24v, either it isn't accurate of your meter reading is out.

The OP hasn't posted since July 2018 so doubt they even look in much now.

The TSDZ is typically 16 - 18a max current draw so depends on how much mah capacity you propose and how many cells in parallel, typically any good 10a cell will suffice but it will depend on what is actually available. One doesn't have to use 10a rated cell and no issue with using a higher...

But it is a moped ok if you don't want any exercise and highly illegal in the UK and EU.

201 rpm is too slow for a 20" wheel, it might make 11.5mph no load speed on the road tho will be like 8mph. Even with a 48v battery you will only increase to 265 rpm or 15.5mph no load speed and about 12mph on the road. One can safely overvolt the hub though usually one cuts the max current...

For smaller wheels one needs a slightly faster motor rpm winding, which rpm akm did you buy. Ideally you want the 328rpm model. If you have say the 260rpm motor then use a 48v battery to make the motor rpm increase 33%.

One can hazard a guess that any issue now is battery age related. Though we will have to wait for you to post again with the issue.