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It isn't good practice to replace cells with new ones as the new cells will be more stressed and may fail sooner then the old ones, the 13s 5p route is the way to go as the cells are all the same age and from the same batch/year manufacture.

Organ transplants use proper cycle couriers for blood and the like. Any one riding that bike will become either an organ donor themselves or the recipient of one.

The issue is down to poor fitting and the buyer not familiar with fitting a kit. The magnet disc need s to form a complete circle so that the magnets are sensed correctly. A bad workman blames every thing bar himself.

Looks like you will need to renew all three motor hall sensors, they should all read about 5v and then when the wheel is slowly rotated backwards they should switch form 5v - 0v - 5v.

Red won't change as it is the 5v input, however the reading is too high for 5v. White is speed sensor so doesn't really affect the motor running unless the controller requires the speed signal. Likewise the halls aren't right the Yellow reading like red is out of the normal scale of 5v and the...

My needs are more respectable and sensible, likely once my current nearly 16 yo car comes to end of life it may not get replaced. So a nice cargo ride and my slightly oversize trailer bed & cargo box will suit most of my needs. The wife would never be without a car so I would lean on her to...

I'm in the ignore camp, I just can't be bothered. Much like the cyling health/diet thread, so much BS in there I stay clear.

I couldn't resist coming back to this and probably one of the worst and most dangerous ebike builds ever seen/posted on the forum. Unbelievably the asking price has jumped from a laughable £4600 to an outrageous and despicable asking of £8580, talk about a scammer.

13s5p will be approx 820/830wh for me that would be 80 odd miles with my riding style and usage, but for a 1500w fat bike pulling 25/30a on throttle I could only guess at 20 miles or so. Until one actually knows the real world wh per mile usage one gets form your set up then one can only guess.

The final 300m in a pro bike sprint the riders can hit a peak of 1400w as they hit the line or just before, one reason why when one immediately sees them in such a state of collapse is they are completely drained for some minutes afterwards.

The forum he is on now is a dream for him he has like minded velo riders who also have built there own machines and his input is high regarded and well received. Tbh Tony was wasted on here but he liked the tech side of batteries and controllers to achieve his needs, now he uses ES for tech stuff.

I pm'd him some time ago as I have done so with d8veh asking after them as both are still registered, also tried Kirstin but he it seems de registered. The other day AK got in touch and provided me with a link to his new build and where he is at. The reason he left was the way threads like the...

Sadly the GSM failed as on a previous upright Tony had an off and over the bars crash and hadn't realised the main internal motor casting had suffered damage. A new BBS01 was purchased pushing the build cost up nearer 3k. Initial test runs show battery consumption is 5.3 wh pe km, later...

Skimping and saving by using parts scavenged off his bike and trike builds Tony's build for parts came in at 2402 euro's. Scary moments for Tony as his hard work is precariously man handled over the balcony and lowered down :eek:.

It has been some two years or more now since Tony aka anotherkiwi has graced these pages with his experience and knowledge. Having moved from uprights to trikes he then developed a passion to build a Velomobile so jumped ship to a more specific forum or two, one in Germany and one in France...

That PAS sensor looks like KT V12L dual hall type and should go on the non drive side, also it is for square taper axles. Yours BB looks like a isis BB so it isn't compatible, the cheapest option is to use a KT BZ10c type to piece PAS or adapt a std to piece magnet disc if you have a spare PAS...

If one suspects camp then 07 motor issue could be hall sensor so carry out a hall diagnosis with a meter. HallSensorTesting.cdr (ebikes.ca)

Shouldn't need to. The sensor ring fits behind the BB tightening ring or external bearing cone, one will need a crank remover and BB spanner to fit it in place.# Best to post pics of the bike crank/BB and the PAS you have for a better understanding of the issue.

Double check the motor cable connection on the rear stay and that it is 100% pushed fully home. 1 -2 mm short of not being pushed in fully can cause this kind of issue.

Whats wrong with it ?