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What price now for elec & gas kw/h prices come autumn, I think we could easily see 50p kw/h for elec and double figures for gas kw/h. Putin has just f****d the world up, though we aren't reliant on R****a for our gas/elec we all are reliant on the global price.

Generally we recommend the KT controllers and displays, they are dearer but give much better control characteristics and are pretty much bullet proof. I won't say most of us use them but those who build there own hub kits tend to use them more.

If it has dedicated PAS & throttle then both should work independently when wired up. £16 is very cheap for a controller and display, how reliable they are is another issue.

It is likely already in the UK in a holding warehouse.

Not much within a hub to go wrong. Speed sensing magnet may have moved or dislodged so maybe is affecting the running. Motor Hall sensors could be faulty, these are easy to test using a meter.

5 wire displays are digital and have comm's wires tx/rx to and from the the display & controller, 4 wire displays tend to be analogue and quite often will work with any analogue controller. Compatibility is the issue.

When I had the BBS01 10wh was what I would also get, 52miles with a 522wh/14.5ah battery. The BBS isn't nice to ride with no power unless you have Geoff capes legs. The key as both egroover and I well know is that for good range without taking some 1200wh of battery is to use low pas and...

You wouldn't know the true range until one tries a run out or lots of local short runs until it cuts out to exactly know. Fat tyres will have quite an effect on range via drag, but as you have said speed is the biggest killer for range as assist will be constantly on. I'm only guessing at 20...

What range are you expecting to need ? We know from early in the thread a 30a controller was being used, do you tend on maxing out the current all the time ? The PF in 6p will have max 17.4ah but at the 30a max draw, the actual usable battery will be approx. 12.15ah/ 580wh worse case scenario...

The bike build is documented on the forum, in the search pages use the words Roadrat build. The bike is average at about 22kgs with hub gears and panniers the range is due to the free wheeling hub motor and a lower cut off speed. Being easy to ride with no power range is increased greatly.

The date code system is fine and one has to realise these big brands don't expect their cells to be kept for 10 or more years and sold later. They produce batches annually as the life span isn't very long in permanent storage.

It's only my take on it, if you think they are or were 12 y/o send them back. I I buy genuine cells then ideally no more then 2 y/o.

If using the the full 30a discharge of 6p cells then one can expect about 2050mah per cell (or 12.3mah for the whole battery) at 5a down to cut off at 3.2v, any lower then one is getting into deep discharge territory. My experience is they do sag quite badly as indicated by live voltage...

Correct PF are made and sold as 2900mah rating, one can nearly achieve 2900mah but only at 0.2a discharge to 2.8v which is the std industry test. On the other hand independent testers use a more realistic discharge rate. Mooch on ECF only rates them as 2680mah cells, his independent testing and...

Range is so hard, thus far I have 35 miles on a 36v 8ah/288wh battery = 8.3wh per mile, I can improve that to easily about 6wh per mile. How one gets such range depends on the assistance level used, the assistance speed cut off and the ability to ride above the cut off speed with ease. Like...

I doubt they are 2010 cells and 12 years old. I expect the date is 25 May 2020 and are grade D cells. The 0 indicating 2020 as we are in a new decade.

They aren't 3000mah cells, the seller is either egging up there rating or doesn't know cells very well. There are two date codes. Old type e.g. A6 2205 equating to in this case last week in May on the fifth day of 2016. Or new code e.g. B, A over V 8715 equating to 2018 July 15th.

One could try disconnecting every thing and then reconnect, first try manually to see if the motor freewheels the correct way then try PAS to see if it rotates properly. Some displays allow a few options for syncing in the settings.

The paramount reason for having the wire exiting south or downwards is as already explained and that is water ingress, it will track in quite readily and the rusting leading to seizing up and failure. Over the years we have seen a few pics of hubs form water ingress and it creates a lot of work...

Panny PF are meant to be 2900mah cells they are an ok low capacity cell, typically less then 2700mah is there actual rating. Again to avoid any voltage sag use at 5a or less per cell in parallel. I have a 5p PF battery and at 25a it held the sag very stably at about 3.5v climbing up from...