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Lack of choice about how hard you need to pedal. The only advantage torque sensor systems have is that you get more precise and instant power control, which is useful when you're doing serious off-road riding or if you were in a cycle display team, but it has no advantage for touring, commuting...

Hall sensors often won't switch back up unless you have a pull-up resistor between the signal wire and the 5v. Those resistors will be on the controller's pcb, so if you disconnect from the controller, the voltage will stay at 0v. Some hall sensors have an included pull-up resistor. You have to...

A torque sensor motor will be completely wrong for her and offers absolutely no advantage over a cadence sensor one. She can still get all the exercise she wants with a cadence sensor. The only difference is that she has a choice about how hard she wants to pedal. The TSDZ2 is not as reliable...

The connector/s is/are in the compartment under the battery. You have to tale the sides off, which is a bit fiddly because of all the small screws. There are two bigger screws that hold the sides to the metal frame and about 4 or 5 smaller ones that hold the two halves together. You only need to...

Here's another point about charging that might be relevant to some people, A fully charged a battery is around 40v and around 30v when empty, so you only get 75% of the power from the motor when the battery is run down, and when the battery is half way down, you have a 12.5% less power than...

If you twist the red and blue wires together, the bike will work without the control panel, but you only get level 1 pedal assist. You can do that while you wait for your new panel if you need to use the bike. There are several versions of these panels, but they all work the same as long as...

1. I've never heard of that before on any bike. My feeling is that it's bad advice because you can get connector damage when re-inerting the battery. I would love to hear the reason they wrote that. 2. It's better not to leave your battery fully charged for long periods, so charge your bike...

Measure it again and give us the exact voltage.

So you pulled the controller out and measured the voltage on the bullet connectors while connected, right? What voltage did you get?

You can reprogram the speed and the power with the programming cable.

I had exactly the same thought! One thing I don't understand. Clearly, this reporter is very ill-informed. Why don't they ever reach out to us or spend 20 minutes reading through the threads to figure out what's going on. Whenever they do an article on ebikes, they always feature the daftest...

It looks like a nice bike for the money. Can we see some pictures with a better resolution? One thing I notice is that there don't seem to be any tie bars to the rack, so it would pivot if you put any weight on it.

I'm starting to find the opposite now. There seems to be a plethora of ebikers around my area when I go out for a ride. I normally ride around on level 1 because I ride mainly for exercise. When I'm going up a long steep hill, I see one coming in my mirror, so I maintain my speed to let them...

$260 for 10Ah plus god knows how much duty and shipping cost. It's going to work out much more than double the cost of Lithium for less capacity and double the weight. Nihm is old technology. It's had its day.

If you forgot to order the LCD3 and you don't have a pedal sensor, order the pedal sensor as well otherwise you lose all the good features of the controller. Did you have a PAS before?

I'm not sure what His previous controller had two power levels - 15A and 22A, which are equivalent to levels 4 and 5 on his new one. If he was happy with his previous controller, he'll still have everything he had before, but now he's got three extra lower levels of power provided he uses PAS.

35 of these @ 1.89 euros each is around £60, which will give 13Ah. https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/18650-size/bg-inr18650-26r-2600mah-12-5a.html A BMS for around £15 from Aliexpress. Add some ring insulators, card and the nickel strip (slotted) from Nkon, then this welder for £30 that my...

A charger is only £10, so cost is not really an issue. yes, you will need a new one.

I fully agree. KISS. The simpler you make it, the lower the chance of problems.

You need the LCD3 to go with that controller It will be useless on its own.