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It's not good, but it'll be OK. It's not worth doing anything unless they start breaking, which shouldn't happen for a long while unless there are other problems. If I were to criticise it, I'd say they should have used a 1-cross pattern with 13g spokes, but better still would have been 2-cross...

It's always the same - everything except what you need. Let's see a photo of the bottom please.

Some photos of the torque sensor and controller wires would help.

Which LCD do you have?

Yes, it's a standard silver fish lock. I thing I have some somewhere. I'll have to look for them.

That doesn't help me to help you Try again.

The cheapest kits work, but or not very-user-friendly. I'd advise you to pay a bit more and get a geared hub-motor kit (normally rear) that has an LCD and 5 levels of assist. The most desirable ones have the KT controller and LCD3. If they mention LCD3, then it's probably a KT controller. When...

Can't help as there are thousands of different bikes and batteries - all different. It would take about a week non-stop to explain every one.

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I've never shorted the wires in the displwy before. I normally disconnect and use a jump lead between the two pins on the connector. The lights being on all the time won't do any harm. Are you getting all three levels of pedal assist?

That won't do any harm to the controller. The worst that cam happen if you use the LCD to switch the lights on remotely, it blows the switching transistor so you can't switch off the lights. Did your bike stop working afterwards? If so, check the battery output fuse.

It's a very basic controller that'll work with a throttle, but it only gives full power when you pedal. It has the conector for a three speed switch, but from past experience, that's probably 15 mph restricted, unrestricted and unrestricted plus 10%. If you decide to buy it, leave the halls...

Controllers have big capacitors in them. When you connect them to a battery, the capacitors cause a big spark. That's not shorting. If you connect the battery wires the wrong way round, the controller doesn't noemally survive. What exactly did you do?

Voilamart kit is 22 amps. The battery will,be limited on how many amps it can supply by its BMS. It'll most likely trip at that current. The 5Ah is at 0.2C. At your current of 4.5C, you'd get about 3.5Ah out of it. If it works at all, thats 3.5/22 x 60 = 9.5 minutes use. Trust me, you won't want...

There are a lot of different pro Rider bikes. assuming that you have the common Voyager or any other with a silver fish battery, you remove the 4 screws from the top and wiggle out that top part plastic part that contains the lock. Take a photo of the lock to show what it is because there are a...

When you turn the wheel backwards, you get cogging from the magnets - a notchy type of resistance. That's not the bearings. You have to rotate it forwards to feel the bearings. You can run that motor with a sensorless or dual mode controller that costs about £40 if the bearings are OK.

You can buy them much cheaper from Aliexpress. Can you take it out and show us a photo. also measure the length because there are different size versions. Another option is to get it re-celled, which would be about £200. This one looks very similar - nice and cheap at £140 with a spare...

yes. You can also use the red and black in the PAS or hall sensor connectors. They're all 5v, and it's just a test to see if the controller is switched on. When you do the test, make sure that the clip is definitely making contact, but don't let it touch any of the other wires.

OK, with the bridge in place, check the voltage between the red and black wires on the throttle connector. It should be around 5v if the controller is switched on.

There's nothing wrong with your brakes. You can improve them by correct adjustment if you're prepared to do it every week, but the problem is that cable disc brakes are generally useless. replacing them with hydraulic brakes is dead easy - maybe 10 minutes per brake, then you can enjoy...