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What's the hub V rating ? Any voltage higher then the V rating will increase the rpm of the hub so one will need to compensate with more current for the lost torque. The issue will be how much can be spent on the battery to get the performance out of the hub, as mentioned it will need to be...

It appears that premature fail is due to standing on the pedals to harshly at start up, if making parameter changes via osf then start up acceleration and torque settings need to be carefully adjusted.

It's the same gear, one side(outer face) has the sealed bearing 609rs and the inner face has the needle pin HF1216 bearing fitted. One can see better looking from the inside face.

For Guerney's battery they are MH1's as the only 3200mah cell LG produce. Test of LG 18650 MH1 3200mAh (Cyan) (lygte-info.dk) What the 6p bank of cells can deliver current wise depends on the BMS continuous discharge. With 6p the battery theoretically could discharge 60a but a safe good level...

A pic of the cells.

No I doubt it, to me it's just a shroud to hide wiring.

Chain in lowest gear, the derailleur should ideally be at a right angle to the horizontal plain. It is clear in this pic the chain is too short and the mech is being stretched/stressed.

A TS BB is an electronic BB and wires to a specific controller type with the logarithm and firmware to operate as so. Though techy forum users a broad have hacked the software of normal KT controllers now to provide OSF to use them.

The above pic has a 5kg D/D drive motor in the wheel and the controller mounted just above the wheel in free air. By the looks of it ideal for that user in dry nice weather.

The BB shell is a std English thread so it's diameter (internal) is 33.6 - 33.9mm, the BBS is a snug fit. As always some over weld may protrude in to the BB shell so sometimes it will need filing down. The only issue is how low the motor will sit.

When I get mine and mod the motor/display I will likely just add the info with pics etc, to swizz's thread as then all relevant info is kept in one place otherwise the info may get fragmented as seen on other forums. The es threads take some reading and there are a few different ones to read...

Mine is for use on a cargo bike and trailer combo, so will be given a good workout so temp will be top of my list to monitor as well as minor tinkering of the vlcd5 with the osf. The osf allows cycling of various parameters so temp, cadence, watts, wh, voltage & current would be my six pieces...

Those stick on labels are dear for a pack and one has to open the motor to see the state of play, a small display with sensor will give real time readings and one can adapt riding style on the hoof to keep under the magical 60/65c internal motor temp build up. Something like this is ideal, twin...

It's observations from reading not only the ES various threads but also from the German forum which is quite huge and is Europe's equivalent of ES. As the issues are known it is better to prevent then try and cure later on. The Blue gear makes sense as a fail safe and an easy item to replace...

It looks like the old adage ' One born every day'.

What was you trying to undo that nut on the axle shaft ? If so that isn't the freewheel is it.

It is the first job to do on the motor but whilst it is open adding the conductive pads is a no brainer, the OSF stuff isn't obligatory.

The tdsz2 is engineered pretty poorly and not only the nylon gear is an issue, as mentioned a mildly warm day will lead to toasting the motor. The crankshaft is known to sheer on the rhs as well and various bearings /needle cages can fail. Without any mods the motor has to be babied, the...

The battery needs charging, quite simple really.

Stripped/worn nylon gears in the hub or even water ingress rusting things up. The only way to know is open the hub to look.