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That's terrible. Sounds like an inside job to me. Who's garage is it and what's your relation with them?

Make sure that you set P3=1 to have the best riding experience with this controller. We'll all be happy when you're happy.

There's nothing wrong with the motor and probably there was nothing wrong with it before, as there's nothing in the motor that could cause the problem you described. More likely, it was the chain slipping or something like that. To solve your present problem, either tighten up the fixing bolts...

I often shorten motor cables, which means cutting and joining all the wires. It's no problem. The only other option is to make an adapter cable, which will still require cables to be cut and joined, out of one of these...

Did you try pedalling backwards? Have you disconnected the self-learn wires yet?

I forgot that some versions of the Emate have Ananda controllers, which are potted, so you can't get at anything. Hopefully, you don't have one. The Mk1 didn't and the Mk3 did. So, if you see "Ananda" cast into the top of the aluminium box, forget it.

What you wrote isn't very clear. When you took off the wheel, did you disconnect anything or did you leave it hanging by the motor cable? My thoughts are that there must be a connector because the cable runs through the frame. If you can't see one, it might be just inside where the wire goes...

There's several settings that control how the throttle works. Either download the manual and go through it or list up all your settings here. https://www.google.com/search?q=lcd3+manual+pdf&rlz=1C1CHZL_enGB733GB733&oq=lcd3+manual+pdf&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j0.7462j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Let us know if disconnecting them sorts it.

Slime is not reliable enough. It causes problems as well as solving them. If you can, get some Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres and forget about punctures. Nearly everybody on this forum has the same experience as me with them - zero punctures in many thousands of miles since fitting.

One other thing you can do is to resolder the joints in the controller that carry a lot of current. Maybe one of them has cracked or got compromised somehow. On older controllers, I've seen them melt away, but that would happen fairly soon, not after 10 years. There are seven joints to check...

It's complicated, and different controllers do slightly different things. AFAIK, the general rule is that the CPU monitors the input for pulsing. It allows a small delay before doing anything. Typically, the motor goes after about 1/4 or 1/2 a crank rotation, so something like 1/4 to 1/2...

the control panel takes its power directly from the battery connection to the controller, so if it doesn't switch on or at least flash, there's a connection issue between the battery and the controller. Open up the compartment where the controller is and measure the voltage arriving at the...

On 30/5/18 post#13 you wrote this and showed a photo of burnt phase connectors. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/ebike-stopped-working-help.31479/ In this thread yesterday post #1 you said, "the phase wires' electrical tape and plastic tubing were fused together and burnt. " That's...

Set it to 6 if you can. It's always the 12 pole magnet discs that cause problems. My theory is that there's not enough gap between them so the next magnet is switching it back on before it has a chance to switch off or something like that. I'm not saying this is your issue, but it's easy to test...

Oh dear! Just when I came here to give you the answer.

There are two possibilities that come to mind. Firstly, there's a dodgy connection on one of the phase wires. It could be a connector issue, the cable could be damaged or you've got a dodgy solder joint. Secondly, you could have a dodgy mosfet in your controller. None of those things are easy to...

I keep mine for bonfire night.

Another 12 pole PAS! Why do people keep buying them? Try pushing out every other magnet to see if that fixes it.

The Badass itself doesn't do anything. It's how you use the power that counts. The Badass allows you to keep the high power on for longer, which can over-heat the battery. The battery has resistance, so it will heat up according to the rule that heat in watts equals the current squared times the...