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South Yorkshire Electric Bike Centre is the headquarters of Oxygen bikes.

That's a complicated arrangement. The caliper adaptor screws are in slotted holes because you have to move the wheel up and down the drop-out to tension the chain, so each time you put the wheel in or tension the chain, you have to reposition the caliper adaptor to get the pads in the right...

If there's any movement, your steering head bearings need adjusting.

Controllers should never fail, but often failure is consequential from when there's a bad connection or other problem. I'm glad you got it sorted.

You can't solve anything without measuring.

It's more expensive than the one I showed you and it's out of stock. Why have you chosen that one?

It's only the connector that's special. Maybe he had the same idea as me to join the cables.

One of these will work if you don't want to mess about with the cable; however, it doesn't match the one on the other side...

The brake lever is very common. You can find them on Ebay, but I've never seen that connector before in 10 years of working with ebikes. I'd be surprised if you could get that from anywhere other than the manufacturer of the bike or one of their agents...

It's a standard Chinese ebrake. What's sort of important is the electric cable and connector if you want to replace the whole thing. In which case, you need to show us what you have. Does it plug in to a connector near the handlebars or does it run all the way down the frame to the box under...

Explanation of how the torque sensor works and photos here: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/carrera-crossfire-vulcan-torque-sensor.30490/

You have to look at Ebay or Amazon. Avoid any with the big 1000w or 1500w direct drive motors. There was a thread about one last week sometime that looked quite reasonable if you search back.

First, measure the voltage on the bottom of the battery, then see if you can find the red and black wires going into the alumnium box abd measure the voltage on them at their connector.

The revised models still have the same torque sensor that has been very problematic.

It's a long time since I've seen one of those. Is there a two level power switch somewhere. Can you take the battery off and take a few photos of the bike's electrics to remind me?

There's a lot more adjustment after ends of the nipples pass the end of the thread because the thread in the nipple starts a long way from the end.

The biggest danger is when you get a bit of speed, like when you're going downhill, then one of the back wheels hits a bump. Also they topple just because of steering, but you soon learn to lean in during turning to counter that.

Beware of those cheap 1000w/1500w kits and bikes. Everybody I know that bought one loved the first ride, then, some time in the future, ended up hating it. They sound like a good idea, but it doesn't take long to realise the disadvantages. Just about any electric bike is better than no electric...

As already said, they're great bikes when they're running, but, by accounts and posts on this forum and from my own and friends experience, sadly, that's not very long.

Be very careful with that. They topple very easily as you'll probably find out. 20" wheels are much safer because of the lower centre of gravity. Whatever electric kit you fit needs to be as close to the ground as possible.