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Regen braking might save your brakes a bit, but will most likely do a lot of damage to your frame. It applies a massive torque to the axle when operating, which can twist the motor out of the drop-outs. you need a custom method of holding the motor if you want to use regen.

It's an analogue display, so can only be changed for a similar type.

You have a power band in each gear. Pedal too slow and you get high torque, but low efficiency, which is bad for the motor. At normal pedal speed, you get good efficiency and power, and if you pedal too fast, you go past the peak power, so there is less or no power. 60-75 rpm is good.

He's done something weird with the wiring on the cable that has red yellow and black. He's put a bridge between the 5v and signal wire, which probably explains why you only get full power. It's only a wild guess, but I'm thinking he didn't know how to do the settings. He probably didn't fit...

Unless they've changed something from the original Suntour HESC system on the Crossfire, there are no magnets in the crank. The whole sensor system is optical. The sensor is the bit you replaced and the bits that give it the optical signal are in the bit attached to the chainwheel.

That was a lucky escape from the 1000w front motor. It would have been terrible. Anything over 250w has to be a rear motor for safety and grip. there are lots of suitable geared rear hub-motors. Bafang BPM for sheer torque, or a Q128H isn't bad. whatever one you get, be aware that the speed is...

You can fit any motor that has the same connector, which, hopefully, is the standard 9-pin cylindrical one. Don't think you'll get more power or speed with a different motor. It might make a small difference, but the power and speed are regulated by the motor controller, not the motor. Most...

That's a common problem. If it's only the plastic that's cracked, it's no problem. If it's the metal body underneath that's cracked, the best solution would be to take it all off and get somebody to weld it. You can buy the whole assembly and empty battery case on Aliexpress...

No, Brainpower uses speed control, not power control.

You'll save a lot of hassle for everyone if you just check it, which takes less time than typing a post. Last time, we managed to write more than 2 pages before the guy pressed his together and solved the problem, dispute him being asked to do that at the beginning.

Speed sensor

I'm sure, though there are many different software versions. In this manual, there is no C4=4!

Like the other guy recently, your motor connector probably isn't in far enough. Most people push it together until it's tight, which isn't enough.

I missed that. It's a little on the fast side for good efficiency, but should be OK.

That's exactly what it is. Apart from that, you can never trust anything you read in the Guardian. Every article, whether social, political, commercial or arts is a result of a financial incentive for them. Everything is twisted from the truth.

That setting only decides whether you can use the throttle or not when you have PAS level zero. The setting that makes the throttle the same speed as the PAS is P3. P3=1 sets the controller to current control with no speed limit in each PAS level. At P3=0, you get speed control, where there is...

Everything has advantages and disadvantages.

You'll have to extend the cable to reach the controller, and thread it up through the frame. Use a brake cable inner too pul it through.

It's easier to get any speed with a mid motor because you only have to choose one with enough power and the right gearing. I personally don't like mid motors for riding on the road. You have to be in the right gear all the time, which can become tedious, especially in winter when you have cold...