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Which bike? Which panel?

Probably blown when you connected signal connected to ground.

Don't use your existing freewheel. The top gear will be too low. I recommend you use an 11/32 cassette. As above, you have the option to go up to 9-speed if you change your shifter and derailleur. There are often some used ones on Ebay because a lot of people changed 9-speed to 10 or 11-speed.

You guys obviously have never encountered one. All the anglers have been warned to clear the way when someone comes, but they'll be thinking of pedestrians rather than cyclists. The anglers use 20ft carbon fibre poles that completely overlap the path. They also have one or two spare ones across...

I've been leaving my bikes outside supermarkets, pubs, doctors, dentists, hospital, meetings, etc for ten years. I've never had anything interfered with yet. I always park in the open, where it can be seen from as many directions as possible. At the supermarket, instead of the bike racks around...

A throttle is useful on an ebike, but not as the primary means of power or speed control. Pedal assist is much better. If you get a kit with a KT controller, you can get the LCD4, which is tiny and not really nickable.

That's right, a lot of sellers claim 350w because they're selling into USA. many of those motors are the same as fitted to UK bikes marked 250w. Unfortunately, a motor marked 350w is not legal. Some have easy-peal labels, which helps, but if the motor''s engraved, there's not much you can do...

You don't need to cut anything. just swap the pins over. The female ones are easiest to get out because the barbs are exposed. Push the barbs down with a paperclip or something like that while you pull gently on the wire.

You don't normally get connectors with a battery. If you did, there's virtually no chance that they would match any kit.

Cut the connectors off so that you can see the colour of the wires, then solder them directly. You don't need connectors.

Kits with no control panel/display only have one level of pedal assist - maximum! That's not very convenient. The kit you linked to is OK, and not bad for the money. The main work in fitting it is to to install two rivnuts in your downtube for that type of battery mount. The fixing positions...

I don't think you can buy them on their own, but when you buy a new battery, you often get one supplied with it. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it to much. Any water that gets in can get back out through the gap between the frame and the controller compartment's side plate as long as you...

There are 10,000 possible codes. You can start with 1234, 1111 and 0000, then the 100 that begin with 19. When you find the code, please tell us what's behind it.

No. Its output is a normal throttle output that goes to a throttle input on the contrller, which you don't have. Apart from that, a new controller would be better and cheaper.

Tow paths are a no-go when they decide to have fishing competitions on them.

Some cheap kits are horrible. best to show us what you're going to buy before placing any orders. Look for one with an LCD control panel. Avoid the big 500W or 1000w direct drive motors.

Start a new thread of your own otherwise everyone is going to get confused. This thread is about a guy that wants to buy a conversion kit.

You have to consider how much charge yo need to charge up an ebike battery with an inverter. A typical 10Ah 36v battery would take about 35Ah from a 12v one, so you'd need to run your motor for over an hour a day assuming that you have a 30 amp alternator. Any folding electric bike will do the job.

A 30AH battery would weigh about 6kg, which would be too big and heavy for a bicycle. Why do you need so much range? You'd have to be someone special to do 90 miles in a day on an electric bike.

I found a downloadable manual with wiring diagram here: http://manuals.monsterscooterparts.com/recreational/iZip/manual-ezip-izip-bikes.pdf