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You need to measure the voltage on the signal wire (not red, not black) while you operate it. Should be about 1.2v to 3.8v. If it only goes to 2.5v, a magnet has become dislodged.

Do you have experience of this bike? Doesn't it's PAS function work on the basis of speed control that would have a different speed limit for each PAS level?

Asking you if you have a commercial interest or asking if you work for a company is not an accusation. It's a question. Stating that somebody accused you is an accusation - and when they didn't actually do it, it's a false one that would normally warrant an apology!

You probably have the wrong connection sequence if it's not the one that came with the kit. Pull back the heatshrink and check. When you've done that, measure the voltage between the black and the not-red wire while you rotate it to see if it's pulsing.

I'm pretty sure it was 12 mph, which was the law then.

See post #2

I'm pretty sure that's how it's supposed to work. You can change it to a conventional pedal assist by taking the spring out of the throttle and pushing it up against the brake or shifter to create some friction to keep it in position. You have to twist it back to the zero position every time...

Do you work for Halfords or have a commercial interest in these bikes?

Which PAS are you using? Did you check all 4 orientations/directions? Did you check that it's pulsing?

Did you try 12 and 19?

First thing to check is that the magnet disc goes round with the pedals and isn't sticking. Next, check that the gap to the sensor is a constant 1mm. Did you do anything to the white box? That's the thing that converts the pedal sensor signal to a throttle signal for the controller. Maybe check...

My simple logic says that if the torque sensor is the same, then all the problems associated with it will carry over. Is there something wrong with that logic...

Are you sure it's 4 digits? The ones I saw were 2 digits 12 or 19.

That seems a strange comment. Those characteristics are not dependent on the type of drive. Did you not wonder whether you had tried the right type of hub-motored bikes. Be honest, how many did you try?

Great list, but you forgot about the bag or nylon gears for the BBSHD, or just the new super-strong plastic one: https://lunacycle.com/bbshd-silent-peek-gear-nylon-gear-replacement/ or metal one if you don't mind the noise: https://lunacycle.com/bbshd-ludicrous-steel-gear-nylon-gear-replacement/

I wouldn't take any notice of the label. even if you find a connection point inside the controller, it's probably disabled in the software. Easiest solution would be to replace the controller and LCD. Brainpower ones from Aliexpress etc. do the job similar to Lishui. They cost about $70 AUD...

It's the same torque sensor!

Rim or disc brake? You can use any 26" wheel that has a cassette spline as long as it's for whatever brake type you have. Disc brakes need the 6 mounting holes in the hub and rim brakes need the flat sides to grip on. You can find loads of used and new wheels on Ebay. If it's important to...

In theory, all three are equal, but in practice there can be slight differences, You can only see the differences by measuring the no-load current with an ammeter/wattmeter and measuring the wheel speed. General advice is to choose the one with the smallest current and highest speed. I don't...

Look at the comments in this one. The torque sensor itself hasn't changed. Some of the comments mention problems with the new version. It seems that there are two problems. I have first hand experience of both of them. Firstly, an anti-rotation lug breaks off, so the sensor rotates with the...