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You have to change them! The guy that made the PAS had no idea what controller you were going to use, so how would he know which positions to put the wires?

You can't connect it willy-nilly. It has to be red to brown, black to black and yellow to green.

The water can also sometimes get in where the cable comes out. I would recommend using a bit of polythene and a rubber band over it every time you ride or park in the rain. You can stuff a few freezer bags and rubber bands in the end of the handlebars.

It's probably got water in it and probably needs to be replaced. You can get level 1 assist by disconnecting the panel and joining the red and blue wires that run between the controller and the panel in the harness. I don't know how easy it is to get at the wires on your bike. If it has the flat...

It depends on your speed sensor - if you have one. If it's a wheel magnet one, it's P07=1. If it's in the motor, it's normally P07=1 or P07=6. You know which by the speed read-out on the LCD. If it's a factor of 6 too fast or too slow, it'll be the other of the 2.

48v is better because you get more torque for the same current, which means that you can use a small controller and nothing will over-heat. Also the lower current gives the battery an easier time. I would always recommend 48v for a hub motor unless you want a light weight low power system. Some...

I've just had a message from Dale, who was the chief technician at Oxygen. He said there never was a 4 digit code! He left before they came up with the latest version. I just noticed that you mentioned the small LCD, which wasn't fitted to the Mk2. That's on the latest one, which is Mk3.

Does it connect red to brown black to black and yellow to green? What were the results of those voltage tests?

Most professional converters wouldn't touch that. You can only fit a crank or chain drive system. Try Brighton Bikes: https://www.brightonebikes.co.uk/

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/tsdz2-no-assist-one-battery-bar-only.38870/

There are two controllers that I'd recommend. One is the Brainpower 350w with LCD for about £40, which you can get from Aliexpress, Amazon, Ebay, etc. The other is the KT sine wave one from Topbikekit or PSWPower with LCD3 for about £70, which is much nicer. I'm assuming that you want to use PAS.

It's supposed to whirr when you turn it backwards. The clutch only works one way!

Confirm that you have 5v between black and brown, then check for pulsing between black and yellow. If no 5v, your controller isn't switched on. What colours are on the other side of the connector?

You hit the tyre to knock the wheel forward. Pump the tyre up hard for best effect and to protect the rim in case you misjudge your blow.

The previous guys problem, detailed in another thread, was caused by a detached comms wire in the LCD, so maybe you get that one bar display when there are no comms between the display and controller. That means a broken wire, bad connection or possibly a faulty controller or LCD.

Turn the bike upside down. Get yourself a lump-hammer or heavy mallet and whack the tyre in a tangential forward direction a few times until the clutch releases.

I think this one will fit...

It's the same as riding a motorbike withe a sidecar. It takes a bit of practice to re-educate your brain. On a bicycle, you turn the handlebars right to steer left, but on a trike. you turn them left to go left. The first time you try a trike, your arms instinctively steer the wrong way, which...

The motor either cuts out at 25 km'h or it doesn't. It should be easy to tell because your LCD shows the power. All you have to do is pedal at say 28km/h and observe the power on the meter. If it says zero or thereabouts, it has cut. What PAS level were you using to do your ride? If it was...

Show us the bike you want to convert.