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Seat clamp types are vulnerable to fatigue and I would say more so for off road trails and bumpy tracks. Thule do a rack and ride system where the fixings are solely on the rear top stays, I have one on a small frame mtb and it worked a treat, not cheap though but I found it rugged enough for...

You will also need a compatible display.

PAS on the old controller is easy and you should know this from disconnecting it form the PAS by following the wiring, it should be the Red/Black/Blue. The Red/White /Black being the hub internal speed sensor. As you have deduced by logic the motor thin wires need to connect to the same three...

The hub is unsensored and three thin wires are for a hall sensor and in your case an internal speed sensor.

All electrical and battery components have 2 year warranty, it is only the non electrical components that have a 1 year warranty. Scroll down the page to specs on the LHS select the specs and all info is in there.

The assist 24v ebike which is £499 has two year warranty on all electrical components, a battery is an important component. The Assist Hybrid Electric Bike 2021 - 20" Wheel is the perfect commuting companion. With just one turn on the pedals you will be able to ride up hills and against the...

Yes the pin placement in the 9 pin motor connectors are the same no matter which brand of hub and is a std layout as is the wiring colours. It is only as you have understood that the others connectors and wiring can be different. If changing controller to Julet type then simply save some faff...

And the gap between magnets and sensor is 1mm ?

Forgot yes you have a basic display some of then are digital but with no parameter changes. Probe the 5v & Gnd to see you have about 5v, then probe Gnd & SIg and as you pass the magnet by the sensor voltage should switch. Typically could be anything between 0.6v - about 4v. Just thought...

1. Yes but the wire sequence will be wrong from one to the other. 2. Yes , the motor wire from the axle uses a std pin layout. If changing controller brand you will 100% have to buy a new lcd display and controller as a paired item also you will need to buy the connecting 1T2 or 1T4 trunk cable...

Right lets start again. The motor cable exiting the hub axle is nowadays a 8 or 9 pin one 3 large phase pins and 5 or 6 thinner hall pins. These are a standard layout what ever the make/brand on them. The smaller coloured waterproof multipin connectors for peripheral items use a differing wire...

As I mentioned it isn't called a drop out, drop outs are where wheels are attached, the Bottom Bracket is retained in a shell so it is called so a bottom bracket shell. If the shell width is 65mm you can use 33mm Bottom bracket shims/spacers to make up the extra 3mm.

If the PAS is now all correctly wired then I can only think that it is a setting issue and possibly may need to look in the settings for a PAS setting that might need a parameter change. Do you have meter for wire testing ?

For a frame/bike ideally not one that has the brake lines or gear lines that run under the BB other wise they will interfere with the fitment.

If you change controller brand you will also have to change the display other wise incompatibility raises it's head so buy both at the same time as a matching pair. If it is a KT controller then you can use any KT display.

Higo is mainly Bafang domain so your controller is a Bafang controller.

No you can use any controller, 9 pin the motor pin outs are normally a std layout /sequence. I have a Bafang cst hub and a G370 and they both work with KT controllers, I can swap out my Aikema and Yose hub and they all work. It is the only item on hub bikes that is pretty much std amongst all...

One has to follow the self learn procedure each time until the motor runs in the correct direction, I think we have had more people have problems with these kits then most others. The learn wires shouldn't be permanently left connected, once the motor is running correctly then they should be...

With any BBS you don't need to worry about the drop outs, it is the BB shell width that is important and whether the chain wheel will miss the rear stay.

Yes first check on the warranty for the battery, most one would think would be about 2yrs. Other wise any 24v battery with just a two wire/two pin discharge will work. For recommendations show us a pic of the battery.