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I get the same issue with presta's using caffelatex so stop using that as well now. Latest stuff I'm using is some green gunk used on tractor TL tyres dirt cheap compared to other tyre sealants.

The only issue you will get is more/closer gear ranges.

You need to add a wheel spoke magnet & sensor. The signal wire is connected to the controller speed hall wire, and the Gnd & 5v can pick up on any other similar wire so you can use the motor hall connection, PAS or throttle connection.

7 - 9 yes. A Freehub should work up to 10 sprockets only the spacing of sprockets differ to suit differing chain widths, of course as you know derailleur and shifter will need changing. The final cassette stack height remains the same, it is Freewheels where you encounter difficulties with...

Is yours also a Woosh kit ?

Julet wiring uses a standard wire layout so any device with a Green julet will marry up the wire order correctly, the issue is compatibility with programming/software with your controller so is why the controller brand needs to be known.

As vfr has said no changes should be needed if all was bought as a kit. P1 is motor reduction X motor magnets = P1 value, both of these should be in the spec's of the hub motor. Motor reduction is the gearing reduction so could be 4:4:1 or 5:1 or even much more, motor magnets are winding...

Why not link it ? It may be of some use to someone. Simple PAS to throttle converter using an Arduino Nano - Endless Sphere (endless-sphere.com)

Continuous or the rating is what ever the manufacturers put on the label. 250w/350w are identical 99.9% only the rating is different for the markets. In the UK/EU and a lot of other countries esp down under 250w is the mark for the US esp then 350w is the mark.

Lets put it another way if the rating was max continuous 250w and no more then 250w what so ever then practically every ebike sold will be illegal that includes Bosh, Yamaha all mid drive bikes and all hub bikes

It isn't easy to repair at distance and is why so many questions are asked, parts simply aren't universal to swap out and then expect them to work. With displays and controllers one can't simply just use another maker without knowing what is being used.

The metal box controller is located in the compartment at the front of the battery on the rack. On the label there should be indication of the maker, likely not by name but with markings we might be familiar with. If it happens to be Bafang, one the biggest names if not the biggest name in the...

It will need someone competent to work on the bike unfortunately that will also rule out most ebike shops as they won't have an idea.

The display connector is a waterproof type does it have writing on it either Julet or Higo.

That isn't good, if hubby simply cut the wires he may have caused issue with the controller or shorted the display. Looks like he has cut the wires to the button pad for whatever misguided reason.

Any motor is illegal if it isn't marked 250w, so mattes not if it is 350w or 1000w.

Can we see a pic of the bike.

These things aren't usually repaired and a swap out is pretty much normal, as I mentioned one can't willy nilly just swap out for any ol display. For it to stop working either someone tried tampering with it or the bike fell over and was damaged.

Can we take a step back at this point and ask at what point or why/when did the display stop working. Displays don't stop working easily unless they are damaged or get water ingress, the issue is mostly likely elsewhere.

48V 250w hub with a 17/18a controller, look at woosh bikes to see what kits are available. Cheap ebay kits tend to have crappy control systems.