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Finally ran this 6ah HG2 12s/2p bottle battery down to LVC today, cut out is 3.2v per cell or 38.4v for the pack. 266.4 wh and 29.6 miles equates to 9 wh per mile for simple maths. Actual wh available will be lower as wh available will be lower due to current load. PAS 1 with the KT is 13% of...

It may not be able to be repaired as is because of the comm's it may support, but it may be possible to repair and use as a battery for any old generic controller. It may still have some value in the cells it holds. Though fed up with the battery you could with our help open it and use it for...

The best controller kit to get is KT with LCD3 or if discreet/compact lcd is preferred a slimline LCD4. Buy a complete kit from Topbikekit select the controller type ,size wise (current/mosfets) & wiring type, then just select the matching items needed from the drop down boxes on the same page...

Beg pardon got wrong end of the stick.

The copper interconnectors are only necessary for high current draw controllers, most standard use is less then 20a so nickel is ample for 5P battery cell groups.

Do you know exactly what is wrong with the battery and why it is unrepairable ? If it is due to duff cells then fair enough. If it is due to just imbalance, one /two slightly low cell groups or duff BMS then both could be remedied and the battery could then be used with any generic controller...

With the new Wayfarer's they are 44v so any normal 36/48v display may not register the battery level correctly, at first it will think it's 48v and may not register a full battery then as voltage decreases & after turning on/off it will think the battery is 36v and register a full battery...

Try the low reading voltage reading on that discharge solder joint but this time with the battery switch on.

The two thin White wires next to the Yellow/C-, are they for temp sensor or switch ?

How many in series is the battery ?

Was the BMS connector in or out when you took the 51.3 measurement ?

B- on the BMS board or the B0 on the BMS connector will/should give the same readings, both grounds take off from the same point of the battery.

They will all be limited to 15.5mph, so will need to be noticeably easy to rode above the cut off to keep up with your mate.

Bike manual should tell you via fault diagnosis one would think.

Show a pic of your bike.

Yes those are the type I use, they come in varying lengths up to 5m.

A thicker wire can carry more current so more torque, thinner wire lees current so less torque if the same voltage.

The BMS is indeed not allowing any power thru so no power to the display. The 1st wire Black is the 0v wire so place your Black probe on it and the Red probe on the #1 White wire to give a reading for cell group 1, it will be between 3.2v & 4.2v if ok. Next place Black probe on White wire #1...

Yes, the BMS is shutting down any charge. It is detecting a low cell group so likely one of them is below 3v - 3.1v.

Pawls all vary in size.