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Much like a Bosh wisper or Yamaha wisper all Chinese built component bikes.

No, BBS is illegal end of and is marked so. You can tone down the current but it still is a 1kw motor. It requires registering as in #2, one heck o a process to try and get thru if you can find a testing station. By the time you finished it will be cheaper to buy a put put.

Another one catches fire in Rome. e-bike Explodes in Rome - YouTube

This bike has a 1000 D/D hub and it is a possibility that the battery can't meet the controllers max current out put, the cells you can here are venting and hissing/shorting not good. You just can't use any old battery the voltage may be right the ah /capacity matters not but the current...

This has already been discussed on Abzy's other thread her controller is 26a rated she won't get a cheap battery to run safely at that possible current usage, buy cheap and expect your arse to be on fire if you don't end up burning the house down. In this case capacity ah/wh isn't important what...

With mix and match kits one can buy the controller that will suit the needs best which is often 17 - 25a which will work with most good batteries. Also one can select motor RPM/winding to suit ones needs, if hilly terrain a heavier rider can opt for a high torque hub for better hill climbing...

Woosh sell decent kits all 250w rated with great UK CS, though 250w they will put out over 400w of power for 36v and a bit more for 48v. Yosepower kits are ok but they do have reliability issues with controllers which is a bit strange as the use KT or Lishui , again CS appears good. Voilamart...

Yes a new controller. There is nothing in a throttle except 3 wires connected and a hall sensor and as with all peripherals signals by way of voltage are sent to and from the controller.

You would need a new charger for the Li battery, but yes one could simply swap battery for like voltage or if one wanted a bit more torque/power go for more voltage and a new controller.

I don't think he likes you vfr :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sadly his punctuation is missing and Mr. Rude/Angry man has gone of in a huff.

That's the problem with the so called cheap 1000w kits, the sellers don't tell or know the truth about buying a decent high power output battery to power the kits over some distance. The kits are cheap but the batteries aren't and one needs to spend 3 or 4 x if not more on a proper battery.

Higo or Julet they both are very similar and compatible fit wise however, one can't use Higo with Julet and vice versa as the wire sequence is different. Unless you just use tails and note the wire sequence and wire it your self.

Chop them off, solder battery direct or use different common matching connectors. If the battery sits on a rail ,solder the rail direct to the controller.

The throttle operation appears to be variable and is set by the controller software programming, most likely the spin out has shorted the controller/throttle circuit and it may be relegated to walk speed mode which is 6km/h - 4mph.

How many miles do you plan on riding in a day or per ride ?

Dolphin case. 48v – eBike Batteries Hailong case. 48v – eBike Batteries Tiger Shark case. 48v – eBike Batteries Silverfish case. 48v – eBike Batteries

Super Shark 48V 9.8Ah Ebike Battery - Samsung 25R Cells [BATP08] - £320.90 : Eclipsebikes, electric bike kits,EV chargers It will get you about 10 miles at max current more, if you use lower power.

The spec's don't give the constant continuous output, you need a minimum of 30a continuous discharge rate, 40a or more will be better.

Yours is the first one we have heard on the forum of breaking and of the various forums I have been on not come across the issue before.

Individual C rate for a cell is 1 x it's mah rating. Example #1. Samsung 25R 2500mah & 20a max rated, 8c capable . 1c is 2500mah, 8 x 25 = 20a. Example #2. Samsung 29E 2900mah & 8.7a max rated, 3c capable. 1c is 2900mah, 3 x 29 = 8.7a. The C rating is different for each cell so the...