Search results

Also the LCD may be custom as well, the Cyclotricity is a custom one as it has a P6 setting which generic ones don't have.

If one can't be civil then don't post or either leave the forum, some one is trying to help with basic info given and no exact bike type to go on and all you can do is insult them. We have thick skins on this forum but personnel insults are unnecessary and will lead to other users not offering...

The electronics are customer custom ones that KT offer to third party sellers, your issue might not only be a LCD but also programming within the controller. If it were I would buy the pair from the same non oem seller.

Bike value at 4 years old is 55% of the then new cost minus the battery. For the the new battery you could likely add 80/90% of the battery value to one bike. The other battery at going on for 4 years nil tbh.

The Xiongda KT controller is likely a special customer custom model suited for the Xiongda, a bit like the cycletricity ones which have the 250/1000w derestriction mode and P6 setting.

Halfrauds reviews are heavily sensored, you won't see the bad ones slating the bikes. Reviews give a distorted view of a product and are bias towards both the product and company usually by a third party who have a vested interest to heavily censor said reviews, in a lot of cases reviews will...

Halfruads sell a lot because they are a big in the UK bike scene with many shops, the one thing Woosh do better then them by a country mile is after service and CS. Woosh bikes are very well priced for the spec and tbh the spec isn't much different then Halfrauds own brand bikes.

10awg is what I have used for the Swizzbee but the wire runs are very short. 10awg is good for 60a optimal and up to 120a max. The rear battery only needs to supply half the current but for a margin I have used 12awg for the parallel connection so ample to deliver all the power if ever needed...

For steep hills you need to think of lower motor rpm if over volting 48v for out right torque, you will increase the hub running rpm by 33%. Increased speed means it will need to run faster to be efficient esp on steep hills, one would exp controller to get very hot, if the rider can't increase...

Yes rear brake fixing is for standard IS calliper mount,

BMS wise there is no harm in going with a higher rated one those cost is more, the main ting is there isn't a minimum current draw. One might even consider a smart BMS so one can monitor each P cell as and when you wish. The speedict Neptunes might be the best there is for this.

You can't weld copper very well unless it is thin and in a nickel sandwich, laying nickel either above or below as well allows the spot weld to penetrate if you up the joules to penetrate but if the copper receives the power directly from a diy spot welder it doesn't take very well. The guys on...

For the UK open air fixing of a controller means the bikes use is limited to dry running use only so would rule out 3/4's of the year. Extra heat sinks might work esp if they were exposed to the air or were in contact with the bike frame to dissipate some of it. When my KT 6fet turned into a...

They can be re -celled but as it only needs a generic battery with only two wires you can use any battery of the same voltage of any capacity ah/wh, just depends on how far you want to go each ride. Show us pic of the battery but afaik it is a behind the seat type so look for any Silverfish...

Yes dead, if it read only about 18- 20 odd volts we would have said check the battery fuse but that looks terminal.

I had similar as most likely a lot of others will have had, my BBS wouldn't slide through so a rat tail file came to my rescue and after 10/15 mins off filing the job was done.

Scrapping an ebike that in all purposes is sound barring a battery replacement would be wasteful. If the bikes are in working condition esp electrically and they just only need a new battery and minor tinkering then they would be an ideal opportunity for someone to get into ebiking on the...

My most powerful bike is the one in the avatar, the Swizzbee. I see up to 32a in low gear and ascending from the brushed 270w motor, controller is 24v and can take about 80a. Though typically of flatish terrain current drawn varies from 6 - 16a dependant on speed and gearing. I can get around...

You need as many cells in parallel as you can afford and fit in the space the battery is to go in. with 12P although in theory it can can provide 120a your never going to need it and should just look at a max 40a controller and a BMS that can cope with 50a continuous for some head room. The...

You have set your eyes on 48v one could go 52v if a suitable one can be got. At 48v a 30 or 40a controller should be ample, the bikes finished weight might need to be known as it will be a factor.