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Doesn't say much for Halfrauds then does it. Pleased you found the problem, your mum should enjoy using it.

A part from there shagged, the mah rating of any battery is the lowest cell rating. Although the average mah is 968, 929 is the rating as one can't get more out of them once the lowest one reaches it's discharge target.

Stop kidding yourself no such thing, just buy a push bike. Anything with a battery/motor mostly doesn't feel like a push bike. My bikes in PAS 1, 13% assist approx. is about the lowest power output decent controller out put and it is far from a normal push bike feel.

Andy matt.

The crux is most staff aren't trained or have the basic knowledge to repair ebikes, hence the diagnostic plug in to a pc which tells them the fault/issue. Unlike a car a bike is pretty much very basic mechanically and electrically, barring maybe hub gears. That is one reason why forums like...

Now dessert you are talking my language, Rhubarbly crumble, Bread n Butter pudd or a nice bit of spotted dick bloody lovely.

CANbus simply ties one in to a manufacturer, all is ok until warranty runs out then you get shafted with expensive repairs or a particular brand no longer is in business. No matter what the end user can't self diagnose or in most cases can't carry out repairs unless it is a minor one.

It would certainly apply to Bosh but ebikes aren't White goods.

The throttle used with a KT isn't variable, one can try and gently apply throttle power but it can't be graduated smoothly at all. Throttle is all or nothing so one gets max current and it over rides PAS, it is on par with PAS 5. The PAS current isn't controllable it is set and any throttle...

The timing might be what the chargers discharge timing is set to, 2hrs.

A battery will have a continuous current (amp) supply rating, this rating needs to be more then the max draw of the controller. So for instance a battery with able to supply 20a continuous would be no good for a controller that can draw more then 20a, ideally the battery continuous current...

Controller numbers mean nothing in this case the maker isn't known. The wire nick is is just that or a complete break ? If a nick in just the outer sheath then it won't stop it working. The connection we need to see is the throttle wire connector and it opposite mating to the controller wire...

As it's a hub motor maybe time to simply just ditch the locked in electrics and replace with a decent reliable non oem system that is far easier to negotiate, it may mean dumping the battery BMS for a generic one or you might be able to use the battery without issue.

Does the hub not have a Julet connector 8- 10" from the axle outlet ?

As vfr has said charge to full 4.2v (don't worry about any capacity during charging), discharge it at about 1a to 3.1v or if u you wish 2.8v. The resulting mah is it's approx capacity, you will never get the cells full capacity as this is engineered by producers to buy bragging right vs a...

The only way to know if the current is variable is to wire in ammeter and watch the current draw, most current controllers to some degree has variable current, as speed rises back emf will reduce current. It isn't smart, just natural characteristic. I see this with my current control...

Use sewing pins or needles to shove up the back of the connector and apply the probes to the pins/needles.

The markings are etched in quite deeply, you will need a Dremel type tool to grind off any such marks and the surrounding ali casing.

Have you tried ebikes direct as they are a dealer as well.

You haven't yet confirmed the actual throttle connection can we see a pic of just this connection on its own.