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This country in the main is anti bike, this is born out with the crap non existent bike infrastructure nearly every where. The same goes for trains they just don't want then on board but are happy to provide bike parks at the stations which are about as safe as allowing a tot to cross the road...

The most important bit is the largest bike one can get away with on the train journey ?

My bikes live in luxury either indoors or in the garage which never gets below a few degrees C. The bike I us e it on is my lightish gravel bike, it has no guards so I only use it for dry running.

C2 alters the phase sequence, I have tested it before on a bike that was running smoothly on C2/0 and the racket the change made was awful.

Many on the forum use and have a throttle, it's how it's configured. No one will be prosecuted for it's use.

The guy I met had a high level aerofoil type device on his bike ( a kin to the late 60's/ 70,s lotus's in F1 ), he would charge on the move as well but like your folding array had about 3 X that amount laid out in the sun.

Any bike you buy online ill be he same, you can't try for fit or if it will suit you. Like wise buying a closed system bike like Bosh, Yamaha or Shimano is really a no no unless a local LBS, one can't simply take a bike anywhere for repair because of commission gained by a vendor to cover the...

I often use BBP for items, delivery and service is very good. if you have a bike that needs a longer chain then buy two or three to keep in stock as spare.

Some people don't arf spout utter rubbish.

I was in a similar situation at school as you GH, I ran long distance cross country for the school in inter school competitions and really struggled with breath on the cold days but in those days diagnosis wasn't like it is today and I was in y later 20's before being diagnosed.

Can we see pics of the 5p 1s test group please.

Lipo are a bit old hat for ebikes but that said I have some that I still use 18560 or 21700 offer better choice now, with Lipo one has a 3.5v - 4.1v window for best results, below 3.5v they will suffer a lot quicker then li-on.

You can't base your usage on suggestions without knowing the other persons ability or bike used. A good or even average fit rider may be using a lightweight bike or wants a light weight bike to commute on, no use doing so and then adding a 7 to 10lb lump to it. My ability is quite good albeit...

If a bike isn't secured to some street furniture then someone can always carry a bike away, tbh in todays world bike owners who don't do so are making the job easy for scum life to nick. I always use two locks.

The Blue one with a link is cruise control, just disconnect the link to save a problem.

There's an outside chance of trying all the C2 parameters to see if any one of them will work as C2 is Phase related. Incorrect phase sequences that result in noisy operation could blow the controller.

Capacity isn't a deal breaker if you only do low miles every day, for instance on my town bike 36v 14.5ah is replaced with much smaller and lighter 12s 2p 6ah 40a home made bottle battery. On another bike the 208wh battery does me for 25miles approx., so my 264wh 6ah one will get me a bit...

Building a battery teaches you how the parallel and serial connections work, also how voltage flows with each serial connection to the next P group. Wiring up the BMS and the pack charge and discharge wiring also leads to more knowledge gained. Once confident one should be able to sort out any...

If C1/5 works then 6 &7 may also work and feel better. If you want a continuous ODO readout and mileage recorded wire in a wheel speed sensor with a spoke magnet, the process is quite simple and easy to wire in.

C1/7 !!! Which type of PAS sensor ? C5/10 is max current, can your battery deliver 20a continuously if using PAS5 or throttle ?