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It won't work on any controller other than the Raleigh one. Even if it did, it wouldn't be any better than a normal pedal sensor. The best pedal sensors are the cheapo 8 or 10 magnet ones.

You don't need to fit your controller there. You can stick it in one of those toolbags under the saddle. That's where I fit them.

They weigh more than some, but not as much as others. I use 1 3/4, down from my previous 2.2" MTB tyres, so I probably saved some weight fitting them. You gain quite a bit on rolling efficiency compared with typical MTB tyres too. There are tyres with more grip, but you get punctures with them...

The Q70 is new. That's why you can't find any info on it. Q85 was the previous best motor for the Brompton, which involved spreading the forks by 10mm to fit (no problem). Now I guess that the Q70 would be better. The KT Sinewave controllers work very well with all the other Q series motor...

Q85 and sinewave controller from BMSBattery and a 36v 20 cell bottle battery from Aliexpress. You have to lace your own Sun CR18 rim because Brompton is a different size to Chinese 16". Total cost is about £400, weighs about 3kg.

When you fit Marathon Plus, you don't get punctures. It's as simple as that. There's no need for daft inserts, weird tubes, slime or anything like that. You only need tubeless if you ride off-road and need proper off-road tyres for grip. Marathon Plus are fine for trails and things like that...

No, what I said is that thinner spokes are more robust. Thicker spokes are stronger, but they break more than thin ones because they're too strong. Figure that one out!.

There are different software versions. you don't always get access to all the settings. That's normal and how it should work. the motor will spin as long as you pedal and the PAS level is 1 or more. In 10 years of working with these things, I've never heard of that problem. I don't believe...

The power decreases as the RPM go up. Maximum torque is given at low RPM. I'm not too sure what is the optimum RPM for hill climbing. I would guess about 60 RPM. At 100 rpm, you get no useful help from the motor. You have to search the forum for all the threads about optimum settings.

Did you set both the t and the p speed limits? Did you try it with 6 PAs levels instead of 9? The controller is switched off when the LCD is switched off, so there's no way that electricity can turn the motor. If you can hear the motor turning when switched off, it's being turned by mechanical...

That's right. 14g are more robust than 13g and 12g. That's why you need them. Thicker and heavier are worse, not better. Counter intuitive!

It could be case of settings or it might be a case of pedalling too fast.

Slime doesn't work very well. My riding mate used to have it and he was always getting punctures, which are difficult to fix when you have slime in there.

That's a standard Bigstone C6, C600, C7 or C700 display, the same as what comes with Das Kit. It's programmable, but you might need the password. It looks like they all start with 8, which leaves 999 possibilities. I know that some come without passwords, so you might be lucky. There's a manual...

If it were the battery, it would cut off at low speed, where maximum current is drawn, not at 22km/h where current is reduced by the back emf.

Fit Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres and forget about punctures.

That one has a new control system, which is different to the one we know. I think those blocks are just blanking pieces to terminate wires that are probably meant for lights or something like that.

Can you show a picture of the LCD control panel?

The tiny Bafang H600 motor gives 42Nm of torque, which is high compared with average. A hub motor is better for commuter bikes.

He most likely has a PF bottom bracket (BB86), which will need the PF adapters and a torque arm to stop the motor rotating around them.