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It looks very cumbersome to me. Why not use a normal wattmeter with a remote shunt mod?

all the way to the marked line?

They're all good. You can get adapters from one type to the other, but probably easiest to get some that have the same type of mount as your present ones. Do your present brakes bolt directly to the mount or do you already have an adapter of some sort because I thought BB7s are all post-mount...

If you have the 9-pin connector near the motor, make sure that it's pushed in all the way to the marked line. If not that, it's a hall sensor problem, which could be a connection issue, an actual faulty sensor in the motor or damaged motor cable.

Surely, a pedal sensor would be a better solution. Full width throttles break easily when you go over a bump.

One of these will probably fit in your case with plenty of room to spare. The size will be about 195 x 70 x 75. You have to buy the charger separately. They have a lot of other nice cell-packs too, but if you choose a different one, make sure that it can supply 20A continuous...

It's a brushless motor and controller. I couldn't see all those wires in the other picture. It looks like one of your batteries leaked. The acid is not only very corrosive but also highly conductive. A good clean around all those terminals might be a good idea. Was that blob on the red wire...

The cars are all jammed, so it's no problem to cycle around them. The show isn't that big that you need to cycle around it. Just lock up your bike wherever you can and walk the rest.

Unfortunately, these motor failures are not just some random 0.0006%. Failure is certain. It's just a matter of when it'll happen. Most seem to fail before 1750 miles, with a lot going in the range 1500-1700 miles. I don't remember a single forum member who's motor didn't fail at least once...

Security system batteries are completely unsuitable. Even if the fuse didn't blow, you'd be lucky to get to the paper shop. If the fuse keeps blowing, there's obviously a short somewhere. It could be a blown mosfet in the controller if you can't find a short anywhere else. Brushed motor...

I have a couple of spares, which I bought in case someone else wanted one. £30 including postage, which is what they cost me. I got done £25 for duty by DHL.

It would be easy enough to make one or two torque arms to fo over that boss. Before they were commercially available, I used to make my own for 10 x 12 axles. All you need is an angle grinder, a dremmel, some files and some 5mm steel plate.

You get 13% more power in the top half of the battery than the bottom half.

You've used the wrong type of batteries. You must use ones that are for electric vehicles. the ones for security systems cannot provide enough current.

They can access ALL the parameters that the normal KT controllers support.

LCD4s have all the parameters to P5,C14 and L3. The display is quite small and the up and down buttons are quite fiddly. I can't see them working with gloves.

Not all bikes have the 9 pin connector near the motor. Have a look to make sure. It'll be about 9 inches from the motor if you have one.

I hope it's not a plastic throttle. I broke two when I was holding full throttle and hit a bump. The jerk broke the end-stop on one and the magnet fell out of the other, which stuck me at 50% throttle. It's worse on a bicycle because you pull on the bars as well when pedalling hard up hills.

What's the voltage on the charge socket when nothing is connected?

Ian, I sent you a message.