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I've not seen any of those wires on one before. Is that the new version? When did you buy it? I'd say that the 4 wire connector is a for programming.

I always get suspicious when new members come into the forum directly in support of 50C, then disappear forever when they get called out.

I can't see anything to worry about on those bikes. Everything is standard and well-tested apart from the motor, which is new. It's nice to see thin spokes on a bike like that. More and more are getting the message and changing over from the ridiculous 12g and 13g spokes. Photos are high res...

IIRC, the batteries were only mock-ups at the show, so these were very much prototype bikes.

Please keep us informed whether you are successful or not because other people would like to know if this is a good solution.

It looks like they're using orange for the negative, so the thicker orange at the top is the charge negative that goes to the charge socket. The black runs from the dame solder point on the BMS down to the terminal on the bottom. The thin red and orange are for the charge state indicator...

I saw those bikes at the bike show. They looked very good and had the new tiny Bafang rear hub-motor, which would make the bikes lighter than normal ones. It seems a bit of a waste when you add rack, mudguards and heavy forks for a commuter version, but the stripped down hybrid one should be...

You need to get rid of that connector block. You need to figure out the wiring. Draw it out on a piece of paper. Normally, the black main power wire from the cell-pack goes directly to the battery terminal, and the red goes to the key-switch, then out to the main fuse, then down to the battery...

There are no 5000 mAh 18650s, so the capacity is wrong. Maybe something went wrong with their maths because it looks like the same pack that Aerdu sell as the 10Ah one. Note also the 15A max continuous current, which is too low for you and means crappy cells.

It's very simple to swap the cell-pack. There are two wires for power that go to the main terminals and two wires that go to the charge socket. The black thing is a charging jack that you'll cut off to wire to your charge socket, the same as the power connector. They're for people that want to...

The battery is knackered. Don't waste any time on it. Measuring anything in it won't help. The controller doesn't have the current written on it, but the markings 3615 normally mean 36v 15A. The motor looks hefty enough to turn up the current a bit, so I'd be looking at a battery that can give...

Cut off, solder and heatshrink is the only solution. If you can't do it, you have to find someone that can. It's not difficult to do. I can walk you through it if you get a soldering iron, some 60/40 tin/lead solder and heatshrink sleeve about 5mm diameter. Don't bare any wire until you're...

Think about future spare parts for the electrical system and ask yourself who's going to fix it when it goes wrong. We get a lot of people on this forum with these non-mainstream bikes wanting help with the problems they get, but there is hardly any knowledge, not many with the special equipment...

That's a valid argument, and it would probably win in court, but the honest truth is that I did it up too tight, which I knew at the time, though I was still surprised when it broke. The point is, though, that there are many ham-fisted owners, who take it upon themselves to adjust their bike...

but you don't have lever shifters, nor hydraulic brakes!

The problem is that things always fail for a reason. Warranty cannot and should not cover all reasons. What about if the seat got a substantial knock when the bike fell over? What about if the owner wasn't happy with the angle of the seat, so they decided to adjust it, and they over-tightened...

Another problem that affects nearly all installations of full and half-width throttles is that the large boss on the inboard end gets in the way of the shift levers and sometimes the brake leavers too. You'll be lucky to get one that works with your other stuff.

That's a good question. they used to make some nice bikes, but customer support was always terrible. I can remember bikes off the road for months because of broken spokes that could be fixed at any local bike shop.

Those controllers often don't work well with intermediate voltages. It's much better to go 13S.