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You need to check the voltages on the charger jack and the battery charge socket.

You have the 9 pin connector on the end of the motor wire. You don't need connectors at each end.

That's what I said. They bias the power towards the torque sensor and reduce the effect of the cadence sensor. That means that you don't have to pedal so fast to get the power. It has the effect of quicker response and faster power when you press the power. Each press of the pedal will give...

A switch on the red wire would act as a master switch. It would have to be switched on for the switch on the LCD to work. A wire (red) comes up from the battery to the LCD to power it. When you press the LCD switch, it latches the power on so that the LCD works (independly from anything else)...

A donor bike like that is going to cost around £1000 or even more with the upgraded brakes. Add £100 for the motor and controller, and that leaves £200 for the battery, which would have been around £500 new without the case. If it's half knackered, that's still a fair price. If I were looking...

Topbikekit, BMSbattery, Elifebike, PSWpower, EM3EV and BTN are all good Chinese suppliers that I trust and have ordered from.

The sine wave controller you mentioned should work pretty well. You'l have to change the connector on the hall wire, or better still, cut the connectors off and solder the wires. I don't know which 3400 cells you're looking at, but be aware of the current they can supply. I made a 20 cell...

"Zero-start" is the Chinese phrase for an independent throttle., so you did use the correct term - sort of.

About 3 weeks ago, a member posted that he ripped the wires out of his torque sensor during some mishap. When looking at it afterwards, he discovered that if he joined two of the wires, the motor went full-speed, like a press-button throttle. He then tested it on the road and made a video of...

LCD4s have arrived. I have to go out now, but if I get time later this afternoon, I can try one, otherwise tomorrow.

Does it have an LCD? If so, you can put a switch on the red wire between the controller and LCD. Other than that, it's difficult to comment without knowing what you have.

We don't know yet. That's why I didn't advise it. I will have one to try in a couple of days, then we'll know.

As I said above, my advice is not to get a torque sensor hub-motor. Get a cadence sensor one instead. I can probably give the same advice with a crank-drive kit. The torque sensors seem to give a lot of trouble for very little useful advantage.

Those cells will even show 4.2V when knackered, but at 0.3V, you can bin the whole lot, except maybe keep the key-switch.

The PAS would give a pulsing 5V, which would be the same as a low throttle signal except if you stopped the crank in the wrong place, when you'd get full throttle. I've seen connectors crossed before that give weird effects like you've got. a common one is connecting the throttle to the speed...

It looks quite well put together to me apart from the motor wire should go down before going back up. The price is about right for something like that. It's not legal.

No, I mean strip off the outer insulation to expose the pedal sensor wires, cut them and splice in a switch before soldering them back together.

You must have something connected incorrectly.

They're Philyon lithium cells, the same as was were in the early Ezee batteries and many more similar ones. It's a standard silver fish case, so your modern one will be OK. Just check that the terminals are the right way round. it's best to check at the controller connector before connecting...

Hidden wire brake sensors are another solution. https://www.amazon.co.uk/DRL-Global-Hidden-Sensor-Inline/dp/B06ZY2CKS5?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duc08-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B06ZY2CKS5