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The shunt only affects the controller, and it can't have any effect on the software. Data transmits between the CPUs in the controller and the LCD. I can't see how either could send bogus data. If anything was damaged, no data would be sent, though I don't know what would happen if you cooked...

That's had a massive overload to melt those wires as well. You can repair the tracks on the pcb by scraping them clean and laying a bit of solder over the break. They normally carry minimal current, so a repair is nothing to worry about. The 5v regulator can only provide 100mA, so that didn't...

Doesn't sound right to me. You might be able to do it like this. Take a steel BMX hub and remove the freewheel threaded piece that's also the spoke flange. On the one I did, that part was only pressed on to the hub, so was easy to remove. Drill the six holes in the flange to match the disc holes...

I think you've got just enough to splice on a motor cable. You need to add on the cost of the cable and some shrink sleeve of different sizes. is it a front or a rear motor? Shipping weight will be around 5 - 6 kg with the packaging.

I like that silver colour better. Silver always looks more sophisticated.

You could probably get down to at least 17kg to make a light-weight version. Remove the rack, put on a conventional seat-pin and light-weight saddle, and change the crank, BB and pedals to light-weight ones. The owner can then choose to dump the stand and lights for another 1/2kg or so. I could...

Only if you park it next to a black wall, but it has another advantage. Black doesn't reflect light, so it slips through the space-time continuum with less energy.

It looks very good for the price. The only way independent brands can compete against Halfords and the big players is to be innovative and up-to date. With that in mind, I'd go 48v, small motor, hidden battery and light-weight. You scored 75% so I give you a C. My scale is A to F, where F is a fail.

The 4 bars are might be divided into 4 equal steps or they might be set at arbitrary voltages, like mine. I think mine are something like 39v, 37v, 35v and 33V. The first step from 42v to 39v is a bit bigger because batteries drop to 41v very quickly before stabilizing into a steady ramp down...

I have a Sensorless Q75. It has a three-pin connector of the same type as the 9-pin, so it needs the three-pin lead to go with it. If it's a new motor, it'll open very easily, so you can look inside. Remove one or two of the three countersunk screws and use the holes to unscrew the side-plate...

The LCD works independently from the rest of the system, so no amount of abuse of the rest of the system can affect it. It's only connected to the controller by two data wires. The controller and LCD can only speak with each other. No power goes down those wires. It also functions separately as...

I think your best chance of electrifying that bike is with some sort of chain-drive system or, if your bottom bracket is standard, you could use a crank-drive. You'll be lucky to get either of those second hand. Do you know if your bottom bracket is standard 68mm one with standard threads? It...

Me too. Are you going to bet? If my estimate is right and he continues with 8 wh/mile, that will give another 16 miles or 77 miles total. That's if he doesn't turn the power right down and pedal hard to try and eek it out. I got 129 miles out of my cheapo 350wh battery like that. If Woosh is...

110mm is narrower than a standard rear motor. They're all 135mm or 150mm. Front motors are 100mm or 85mm. Another thing is that you need a high-speed motor for 20" wheels otherwise you'll be stuck with 12mph on a good day, though it'll winch you up any hill.

BMSBattery are very trustworthy, though sometimes they can be a bit slow with batteries and motor-wheels. I wouldn't use that controller. I'd get one of these, which has better power algorithms and is generally better understood by forum members. I'm assuming 36V. You have to choose an LCD and...

Let us know how you get on. Xiongda are a small family business. They're the most helpful Chinese company that I've ever dealt with, and their after-sales support is exemplary. Let us know how you get on.

I would say that at 35.7v, there isn't as much as 42% left. I'd say more like 15%-20%, so more like 8Wh/mile.

If you don't mind risking a bit of money, you could try the bluetooth adapter and software. See this thread. You could ask mechaniker about it. He knows these controllers very well. I think he's done some development with Li Shui...

I can't see that changing the currents will solve anything. The balancing current is controlled by the BMS and depends on how many bleed transistors are open, though mostly it's shut off by the charge MOSFET while the high cells are bleeding. Changing the trickle current will only change how...

As I said, there's those that theorise and there's those that have actually done it. I can tell you that he won't have any trouble reading his meter to see what's going on. All you're doing is trying to discourage him by putting fake obstacles in his path. It would be better if you stayed out of...