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With KT one is best staying with LCD3 as they offer a few more setting values ove rthe colour screens, one or two now have had issues with the settings using those lcd's.

Before even thinking about opening the hub (usually reliable), I would carry out some controller phase testing first and then hall testing . The over heated/melted supply wires suggest a problem not related to a hub issue but more of a overload power surge demand from the controller/battery.

Try a chain keeper.

Some hubs may need running in to lose their tightness, the internal clutch should allow free rotation of many more revolutions, as Ben has mentioned check for any other reasons for slow rotation that may cause drag. The LHS on a hub has a end plate sealed bearing if the inboard axle nut is very...

1. Yes to both. 2. Need to see a pic of said housing. 3. You can use an Ah battery, more Ah means more range and holds higher voltage longer. 4. New battery and new charger will match, for old casing just by charger the correct charge connector is possible. Show us a pic. 5. Adapt if need be...

I can have a good guess at your issue. Mosfets getting too hot and cutting out/thermal cut out let the controller cool and back on again, next time it happens try and touch the controller it will be hotter then a hot spud. High assist & to low a speed up hill ?

You can get batteries for under £200 that should be usable. Freego's use the silverfish battery style plenty on ebay for under £200. Show us a pic of your bike, also it might be possible to revive the battery if you or anyone else want's to have ago. We can guide you but you need a meter for...

For a touring cyclcist is makes sense. For a day rider who might rides 100 odd miles using a pair of batteries one would surely have planned the ride and made sure before the off they are charged.

Hailong BMS replacements are sold look on TBK or Aliexpress. The BMS wire colours mean nothing they can be any colour, what matters is the BMS board is marked C-, B- & P- so you just connect the thick wires accordingly. You ideally need the same board to guarantee the sense wire JST connects...

A lot of old tosh being talked about of switchable controllers Controllers aren't sold as watts rating, that's just China selling crap which they don't understand. Controllers are sold with a current rating so figure out what output you want for a motor and the voltage you are going to run at...

Not the slight interested in what twatty does.

For paralleling any one who is thorough and makes sure voltage are very close so say for 36v, 41.5v & 41.6v then there is no need to go down the mod route for your balance leads. Stick with the routine you already know and are happy with rather then go down the that will do road.

Nimh cells are 1.2v nom with a max 1.4 - 1.5 top voltage, most Li is 4.2 v max per cell. Use the correct charger to do the job.

What ever battery chemistry you buy make sure you buy a battery and charger together, that way you can't go wrong. Nimh charger is no good for lithium, stick the charger in room101 and forget about it. For 36v I would simply buy one off ebay if your bike can use any generic battery.

The BMS should prevent a cell form getting to low < 3v per cell group, though they are not a fail safe and sometimes a bleed resistor can sty open and a cell group may go lower. In most cases < 3v per group and the BMS will not allow any charging to take place as it has detected a fault. In...

A reading of one means infinity and the fets are fine on that test, any reading zero is a failure. When testing V+ against phase the Red probe is on V+. When testing V- against phase the Black probe is n V-. The link describes the action quite clearly.

Most charge sockets are covered/protected so quite hard to make such an error. Simply you have shorted the battery, if there are any ext fuses via grommet then these can be looked at to change. Damage will have been done somewhere and most likely either the charge wiring or BMS is smoked...

The nearest feel to a push bike is another push bike.

UK suppliers tend to over charge for stuff you can get on Aliexpress or a good China ebike store by up to 100%, so it pays to go via China where they not only just sell the controller & displays but all the other bits as well. For ease of use KT are the best after market control systems to buy...

One can use metric as well as imperial to check chain stretch. I also ride many miles from home and often anywhere up to 160km for a day ride. No had any issues yet with drive slipping or indexing, maintenance is key and every one has there own system.