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The reason for their popularity is the cheapness but that means the electronics are crappy giving not much control over power delivery and user friendliness.

The fact that the old kit was working fine tells us the battery shouldn't be the issue. So it is an electronic one either incompatible components or wiring sequence/connection isn't correct but as I mentioned above we will need some pics and info to go on first.

Hello Savoy, it can be exasperating when the electronics don't work following an upgrade. Ideally can you show us a link the controller & display you purchased or pics of them please, also some details of the original kit you have on the bike inc the motor. Can you confirm the new display when...

A2B will be dealer only service in my view just as Bosch, Yamaha and Steps are. Using CANbus systems they are not for after market tinkering or replacement.

Not quite me the colours but the Pash Parabike is me all over olive/drab green.

Kuenteng/KT controller, 36/48v dual voltage T09P or T09S model (they use current control and not speed control). We would have to see all your wiring properly to give a definitive model. You would probably have to do some wiring connector changes as well, so soldering will be needed as there is...

Your hub is sensor less only three pins. You need a square wave/unsensored controller, Torque simulation means it is a current control controller and uses a different current load for each of the five power levels. Sinewave controller is of no use to you with your hub. Yes you need PAS to be...

The bolts fixings are probably M5 so you could fit a small battery or bottle battery there, even if the battery base plate holes were wrong you can re drill most base plate sso that one would fit to allow the battery also to fit. The negative about the Revos is ruining your nice mudguard to fit...

The temp you saw was the ambient air temp, you would have to fit your own moto temp sensor if you want hub temps. Either the 700w was too much for the hub or the controller got hot. Which hub/rating and controller are you using.

I would say the controller looks abit ungainly stuck up high there. Depending if it affects the fold maybe lower down to the front above the battery or on the frame tube behind the fold joint.

Those powerful D/D hubs are good if it is flat where you live as they are designed for speed and not torque for low speed or climbing ability. Though they can be if you throw plenty of current at them along with a monster battery to deliver the power.

The smaller geared hubs are lighter and quite powerful, Awol's Q128H an Aikema geared hub will be about 3.3kg and couple that with a 25a controller should be more then enough. A 201rpm 48v hub should top out at 21/22mph and have very good torque being a low wound motor. You would need a good...

I would go for the drive with less resistance so that if you wish too, you can pedal easier above 15.5mph without a dongle.

A gamble that paid off you were lucky.

The controller an unbranded China one is likely a speed controller they give max power in every assist level/mode with each level/mode having a differing max speed limit. How many assist levels do you have ? As to the wires Black/White if they mate together are likely meant to but what for ...

Jimmy is the go to man for battery re-cells.

I wear hair on my head.

Very nice label Awol..... Diy ? These guys who come on here buying and bemoaning the dinner plate D/D kits would be better off with the Q128H a snot only is it geared it is 800w continuous capable, couple it with a 30a s12s and they would have a good power combo and the best of both worlds...

If you are capable and can carry out simple diy, like wiring a 13a plug etc, etc, then replacing a PAS sensor/disc should be relatively easy. Regarding your current issue if it is simply when peddling along you are having intermittent power then turn the bike upside down and look at the sensor...

A bit of a difference a motorbike with an ice engine and a pushbike converted to a moped using power tool batteries for 1500w heavy hub.