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What is that on the seat tube , a pump ? Are there any frame fixings/rive nuts their? A lightweight battery could go on the rack.

BB is the bottom bracket which contains the bottom bracket/crank axle for the pedals/crank arms, your designed one looks excellent and perfect I would say for any mid drive kit. There will be a few on here who would like a frame like that because of it's styling/design, its a good looking bike.

700C, 28' & 29' all the same size tbh and no problems with 700c here, the mass weight on the rear might be though . Does the rim need tensioning ? Ryde Z2000 & ex 19 rim used here.

They will have a test bike, ask them & arrange a visit to Brizzy to try it out. The 208wh battery is good for 25 -28 miles.

Most push bikes & ebikes purchased over the Pandemic will be back in the sheds before to long, I haven't seen many out and about much now the roads are getting busier again. The mortons who drive at speed and without due care for other users are out and about again.

Do you really want a heavy 6.5 kg 1500w D/D motor in a back wheel ?

A mid drive kit would be ideal looking at the BB design. The friction drive is no good with mud guard fitted so dry running only unless you like to have wet bum and back. The Revos works well in the wet, watch the vid's of the Brizzol 10% incline wet ride.

The guy in London a couple of years ago went to jail for 18 months after running a women down who walked out in front of him, he only had one brake.

It may not be the rim, the actual wheel build may just be crap and needs rebuilding from the start. I use cheap rims sourced off ebay and have little or no issue with them on by wheel builds, though don't use a D/D hub. There is a lot of dead weight on/over that rear wheel.

Any hub will need to be a low rpm/HT for the conversion, the OP has already mentioned the instability.

A month to forty days is the normal time line but usually 14 days I find.

Do you mean you disconnected the PAS and used the wiring for a throttle instead ? If so it won't work the programming is different as is the signal.

The tyres are porous and not TL specific they will always leech air and fluid, you need a TL ready tyre. Not all TL tyres are the same and on my gravel bike it has TL rims, a WTB TL tyre just wouldn't seal. I tried a specialise 2 bliss tyre and went up first time and stayed sealed with no sealant.

Steel forks drop outs don't need a torque arm like soft ali does.

Show us a link to the BMS, some don't use the the extra wire as the b-.

The Revos is a friction drive and will wear out the rear tyre very quickly. The Revos 2 will be better then the original and quieter as it is sensored but think really not along term ebike solution. Show us some pics of the bike.

That rear Disc brake converter might just work, the drop out on it is 10.5mm so a geared hub axle with fit it.

You will want this as well to connect hub to controller...

Bosch I think won't send a replacement until they have received the old unit.

Yes if you can get the reduction gears then it will be cheaper. If you can remove one that looks not to damaged it might be possible to get them made up with a 3d printer.