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Four wires indicate a CANbus type handshaking going on which means use of generic basic chargers can't be used as the communications between controller and battery BMS are not the same.

I would set the all wiring phase and hall back to original which likely was colour to colour matched then revert to trying the 'Learn wires' which may take several attempts for it to sync the controller, if eventually you get nowhere disconnect them and try manually using the chart and noting...

As with most ebike halls the source leg (RHS) is + and the latching leg (LHS) is -, leaving the middle leg as the drain leg and connection for the coloured hall. Green, Blue &Yellow halls are generally marked a,b or c as indicated on the hub pcb though I have seen 1,2 & 3 used. Double check the...

Pics please. The older six pin hub is a sensored motor 3 phase and basic three sensor pins, one for 5v, Gnd and the third might be speed sensor. Most controllers utilise 8 or 9 pin connectors though you should be able to run the hub with the 6 if a motor cable can be used to fit. Your main...

Matt your current hub motor looks like a 500w geared hub probably a Bafang from the glimpse in the pic of it, a 48v 1000w D/D hub won't be an improvement tbh over it. Some more pics of it and any writing on the motor would be useful then we can see what it's speed rating might be. The 500w if...

I agree with Ben a new controller set up is needed before anew battery with the current speed controller set up, as you have seen lower powered motors can take more current watts and 250w hubs can take up to about 1000w if you don't abuse the higher wattage all the time and just save it for...

The slower speed wiil pull more torque and current longer, the higher speed is near the cut off if legal so as the speed rises the current backs off. The suggested 1000w kit is and probably will not feel as good as the current hub motor as the motor will be a D/D drive hub and not ideal for...

If re-celling with lion and using the lipo charger you might as well omit a BMS and continue to manually balance charge as before, balancing with the lipo charger then allows as before you to decide on the final balance voltage. 4.1v would be the best for life but still monitor lion lvc to...

By swapping halls and phase it will be totally out of sync, adding halls to the equation completely changes the logic of how the wiring affects the sync. Simply swapping two of the phases doesn't work if the halls sequence is changed willy nilly.

No some PAS work both ways, I have one that kicks in like that as well so if wheeling/pushing backwards I make sure PAS 0 is selected.

So if your thinking is correct the two Black ones are bipolar Halls requiring a + magnet pole to work and the white one could be a unipolar Hall requiring a - magnet pole to switch !!!!! Though not White the unipolar SS41A requires the opposite pole to a bipolar SS41F...

Swapping phases isn't enough on it's own if you have hall sensors as well, as I mentioned there are 36 combo's. A chart to follow allowing all poss combo's you will be lucky to find six to actually work and maybe only two which will be faultless.

It's not as simple as that Andy if you have halls as well, there are 36 combo's to try and only about six will actually work and of those six you will find two work perfectly as some controllers if sine wave simply don't like to run without sensors. Persevering with the learn wire sis the way to...

With integrated combo brake/gear selector with wire control you can use HWBS if the controller has a three wire connector for it.

This very recent thread offers the same advice and the upgrade is similar to yours with a speed controller. The KT is the most commonly available after market electronics to buy for an upgrade and the most user friendly most give little issue and most issues tend to be incorrect installation by...

UK resellers ask to much for a controller and lcd as well as not selling peripherals if you need them so it is better buying direct from a good reliable China vendor. This one I can highly recommend with everything in one place...

With a KT you will have to buy the lcd as well for it to be compatible. As with any controller the connectors might be different for PAS, throttle or brakes. It might entail fitting new conenctors or changing the sequence the wires are in, to be sure everything fits it is easier to but the new...

Ok so you have a 14 x 12 axle. Which hub motor ? Use what ever you need to do the job. Still think one of these will make a better job of it...

Lipo charger will work fine but you might want to lower any charge/balance current to < 2.5a. Charge parameters are the same voltage wise.

Usually with learn wires you need to connect /disconnect them until the motor runs the correct way then turn off the bike before disconnecting the wires a final time, next start up should have the motor running the right way. Perseverance it the name of the game or buy a better controller...