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Once the roads get busy again with vehicles the bikes will disappear again until the next plague.

Tongsheng a TS model, Woosh or many other sellers from China. Aikema make a BBS type clone with higher gear reduction ratio on Topbikekit. Lingbei ( Ex Bafang engineers) make a BBS type clone as well, with TS and cadence on AliExp. Gospade if only you can buy one, make a super light model. Yalu...

For me the colour is too bold.

A front derailleur by any chance !!!! If you keep dropping the chain then may be a new chain or new chain rings are in order like narrow wide ones.

Both of those applications aren't suitable imho, hub axles are minimum 12mm x 10mm, you need the 12mm depth to fully sit in the drop out, even the front will eventually crack though metal fatigue even with TA's. Your best option is a mid motor or a bike with suitable drop outs.

This route is only for those ideally mechanically minded, though I am anti lock -in with the likes of Bosch. For most it will mean buying several tools to work on the bike and a bike that may not look as neat.

The drop outs don't look like they are very suitable for a rear hub, often the hub axle needs to sit about 3mm deeper in to the drop out. So the drop out needs reamed out a bit more and the larger axle nut needs to be done up without fouling other areas of he drop out

The Yose hubs are quite highly wound for geared hubs and are approx. 280 -300rpm so not enough torque for inclines as Woosh has said you need a lower wound hub and 201rpm or less is required 48v is better then 36v.

Rear hubs are usually more suitable but need a bit more work to fit them. Show us some pics of your bikes front and rear drop outs. Most opt for a mid drive for trails or off road but only if it is hard core or techiniclal. I prefer hubs just because of their reliability and ease of easier...

The Yose comes form a German warehouse (a staging post) so no duty/vat to pay they bend the rules by doing so, as why they tend to be cheaper. Generally CS with Yose is good, though problems may take a week or three to sort out as you have to deal direct with them in China and supply pics via...

Front hubs aren't generally advisable for Ali fork drop outs even with torque arms they can crack and ruin the fork.

The Yose is geared as are all hubs generally that don't look like a dinner plate. 350w is more then the legal rating but are over engineered, they can take up to about 22/25a current but not continuously other wise you melt the nylon gears through excess heat. The extra current is for hill...

The problem with low budgets is you constrain yourself to a cheaper battery option. What type of riding do you wan to do ? Have a look at Topbikekit.com the Aikema hubs are very good and cheaper then Bafang, all the peripherals needed can be got from them as well. With all China imports...

The Csc is a D/D hub like the Voilamart but with better KT system at 1500w you going to need a battery and a half for power and about £600 with top quality 20/25A rated cells needed. The large dia D/D hubs are heavy 5kg plus and demand good current to get the best out of them, they are ungeared...

Yose have now I believe switched over to using Luishi controllers another good branded maker form China, Woosh bikes use them mostly. Generally KT are problem free I use them all the time on my bikes.

The G370 with its face plate removed. The two step planetary gears give the 14.6 gear ratio. Face plate with the outer sun gear and a film of grease. Mr Tom keeping an eye on things, just to break up the bike theme.

Alfine 8 hub laced up and trued in to the new rim, rims are Belgian (I think) Ryde Z2000 quite cheap at £19.99 a pair and decent in design. I have them on my 700c CX bike and they put up with everything I chuck at them without issues. As with all my hubs I tend to use a 2X lace, 266mm 14g...

Yose are ok the hub appears to be quite bullet proof, their KT controllers for some reason appear to suffer with odd failures. The KTV12L PAS is also a weak link so opt for a conventional two part PAS. The Voilamart 1kw tbh just don't go there, battery hungry and heavy hubs that are tbh under...

Front hub / wheel will in some situations will scrabble /spin for grip but it is how you apply the power, no use using high pas/throttle if wheel spin is evident. Low speed/gear will give higher torque and traction. No throttle on this build, tbh I don't use the ones I have fitted.

40a on a 15a controller is a bit excessive for an ebike.