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41.5v minimum usually for a battery in good health. If poss try and cycle the battery a few times to see if things improve, use a meter for proper voltage readings not led lights on a display or battery.

Hello Wheezy and welcome to the forum, lots of help if you need it. As a newbie some pics of your steeds.

For now I would fully balance charge several hours before each ride to ensure that the balance is better and that you hopefully will see 54 - 54,6v measured from the battery, once you see the stable balancing occurring the you can try 90% or about 53.3v charging. I use 90% with my batteries...

Oxygen have always had a good rep on the forum as do some other regular contributors.

A bit like the DH Comets of yester year decompression occurred due to metal fatigue at the corners of the square windows, eventually they found round windows were the answer. Though you won't suffer from decompression you could suffer a face plant if a failure occurred at speed.

I'm 57 this year and thought about retiring but to like the interaction of my job for the last 30 months 4 on, 3 off & 34hrs as beginning May I have changed my hrs to 21 and 3 on, 4 off. I will work Friday to Sunday and have four nice days off in the week. With no mortgage having worked hard...

Depends if you are a practical person and also able to trust and follow the advice given, all that is needed is a screwdriver to open the battery and a multi meter for voltage testing of the 10 cell groups. The testing of cell groups is only to see where the issue might lie and not a fix, the...

A good UK kit is about £600 form Woosh if they have it stocked, though the price may be more then other kits it isn't when a good battery is supplied and no issues with spares/repairs via their excellent CS. If fatigue or stamina is the issue then a cadence PAS hub system might be best, Woosh...

Pictures and type of sensor, if it is a torque/optical sensor then you are stuck. They are Suntour oem parts only. The optical one I believe VFr/d8veh said needs cleaning as grime can affect the operation.

When filing drop outs you will notice the seat of the D/O is radiused be careful not to square the corners otherwise metal fatigue/fracture will occur.

At least one of the cell groups has likely discharged below 3.2v so the BMS doesn't allow any charge until it is rectified, the voltage needs to be manually raised but this requires the battery to be opened.

If it uses 5 wires then no.

If the sensor has a Red LED then it shoud blink on/off as the magnets pass. You can check the sensor the same way you should see voltage switching as the disc passes, the sensor is easier to just replace as they aren't expensive.

China wire colours can be hard to cipher but Sturmey is correct. Gnd is either Black or Yellow, if both are used Black is usually the default and the other being signal. 5v is also the same either Red or Brown, Red is usually default. In you case Red/ 5v, Yellow/ Gnd & Blue/ Signal. Once the...

You have to add more chain links or get a longer chain.

You can use any 24v battery, just fit the new battery holder and battery in place of the existing. Just make sure polarity is correct first.

The KT V12L has caused many an issue.

Did you marry up the wire sequence correctly 5v to 5v , Gnd to Gnd & signal to signal ? Sometimes you have to change the wire order sequence to match as not all sensors are wired the same. The new sensor and disc should work.

I had no issue with Alfine 8 on a mtb and a 20t sprocket, I used 2x 48/32 combo up front and a 36v front hub at 12 s/20a and used it on off road cake stuff without much issue. The motor torque was awesome and it was no slouch accelerating and 25mph capable.

The hub looks legal to me with the 250w marking. You can ride a 1000w hub kill someone and still get away scot free when it goes to court as happened this year. Also anther guy I think was on here somewhere was stopped by a plod car because of speed, the rider again using a 1000w hub and...