Search results

Yes it is nasty and certainly charging in very small enclosed space is not good, I for one would never charge in a caravan type vehicle. It only takes one cell to go thermal and cause an incident, the battery if the same one had previous history and shouldn't have been repaired. Which is why a...

The evidence from the ES boys is they self discharge and are poor after the first 50 -100 cycles. Oh and by the way last time I saw him Kirstin was still a bloke and not a she or heeshe.

The battery discharge looks like it only utilises the outer contact on each side (you can confirm this your self ) so looks like any generic battery can be used with out issue. The controller is usually located in the front section of the battery rack fitting on the bike, the best option I...

If you had a bad cell/s the balance for sure will be out and all over the place, start and end balance is good so The 30Q was designed for high current delivery for battery tools the cycle life is poor and not up to ebike needs, IMHO either they are toast and sag badly or the BMS might be at...

By the time you pay fees, import and courier fees you aren't much cheaper then a Woosh kit. When or if it goes wrong you have no CS or a headache getting it repaired, UK vendor like Woosh giver you all of that with great CS.

Yep and you are liable for the points and fine should an infringement/offence occur unless you identify the driver at said time of infringement/offence. The owner is and will be the default person to be prosecuted, unless of course the vehicle is reported as stolen.

I have also answered but the problem is Op started three threads on the same topic and we are all answering on the three. :mad: Why do posters start so many threads on the same subject instead of being patient and waiting for answers ?

No because the scooters in law are mopeds with no rider input needed, they are twist and go throttle propelled. If Pedelecs had to have compulsory 3rd party insurance then so would all Push bikes as both are in the same vehicle class.

I expect you have a 201rpm speed winding that makes all the difference. People ride a hub bike and then condemn them because they don't climb well, like yours if the correct rpm model is bought then they are good to do the job. Bikes shops and larger stores who have jumped on the bandwagon...

None of my wheel builds are oem and are all done by my hands in a diy/self built wooden trueing jig.

My Thule rear rack has side panniers, you buy the side drop/rack bar frames as an extra add on.

I must be doing something wrong then as I can't seem to break spokes on my Bafanf cst or Aikema 128c hubs.

You can use any 36v battery as long as the existing one doesn't do anything special, the ah capacity doesn't matter more just means extra range. Show us a pic of the battery and the discharge connector.

I should say my wired lights aren't of the wired USB type .

Hi viz is common place and sometimes blends in with pedestrian and other use so I wear a cycle wind/rain jacket of a lighter bright blue colour, something that stands out and is different.

For cold weather riding a cold face & ears can be unpleasant, I wear a multi use buff. For lights USB chargeable, for my town/commute bike I have them wired/switched to work off of the bikes battery.

I have been hankering for one for ages but they discontinued them a 2 or 3 years ago. Recently picked up a frame and forks only Kirstin, so it will be a full ground up build. The finished bike won't be a Cotic original build as I will use some parts from two mtb's bikes I will be tearing down...

Hobbyist's/amateurs if you like, tend to have more of a passion for their past times and the experience & advice is quite often 2nd to none.

G370 on order, controller will be a KT22a sinewave 9 fet julet model with an lcd4. No throttle or brake sensors for a minimal bar look. This is going in the front of a steel Cotic roadrat with an Alfine 8.

That's not a controller it is handle bar display and can be LED or LCD. A controller is a pcb/etc in a small ali box or integrated into the motor or battery that regulates the current asked for.