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All ancillary parts like PAS, throttle, lcd etc use up to 5v so they shouldn't cause an issue. If able to then try changing the resistor, the bands on the resistor identify the type required.

Any three wire PAS will/should work if the wire order is correct. The battery if warm hot is charging the heat produced is the current flowing , easy to check with a volt meter. Some batteries also have an on/off switch wired via the BMS make sure it is on during the charge process, as the...

Reliability wise I have had none with my hubs all having 20 - 25a controllers being used, during the recent heavy rains and flooding I have ridden thru water at crank level and have had no water ingress in my Bafang CST ( circa 7000 miles ), this confirmed when I carried out a major service on...

The hub motor torque is dependant on the rpm speed of the hub motor a 201rpm will have much better climbing ability then a faster wound 328rpm one, then the bikes actual gearing needs to be low enough to prevent motor stall.

The problem could be down to a faulty batch, you could try and replace the resistor if you can find its resistance rating. First step is to contact Egg bikes first with pics of both damaged controllers.

Some leds use 5 wires and will only be compatible with a controller from the same maker as not all functions will work 100%, a 4 wire one might work with other controllers.

It depends on the maker, though as mentioned will need to be paired with a compatible led or lcd.

Nothing can be done if the controller isn't programmed for one. You certainly can't use the PAS connection. Only option is to fit a different controller.

Yep, this is evident reading most of his replies when the subject is raised. Any how I have started a mid motor vs hub motor thread so maybe we can keep the subject in one place rather then keep derailing someone's thread with bias concerns over this and that. Without China I doubt the e drive...

In other threads the merits of both have been talked about many times but they end up derailing the course of a thread, so it would be far better for the them to be discussed under a specific thread. The virtues of both types have been extolled many times especially on here. The latest...

This thread has changed again like others in to Mid drive vs hub drive, a new thread needs starting to pit them against each.

Part of what I said is, if you read again they are no good for the newer Julet type controller/systems. And these systems are predominantly being used now on bikes using integrated controllers.

Yes a good idea RR or a driving licence.

Dealers should think about asking for their car keys or expensive mobile phone as security.

Those might be ok for older style controllers which use birds nest wiring but not with the tidier waterproof Julet wired ones. I myself wouldn't waste my money as with a cheap multi meter I can do all the wire testing needed to know where the fault will lie.

The re - celling done professionally should pose very few issues, Jimmy is an expert at this. I build my own but would never do so for anyone else mainly for legal reasons.

A decent construction will use added protection on the v+ end, I always use another card ring to prevent the short risk and cell spacers.

I see them in use here in a large Sx town, there's no way plod will do anything around here because they are like little green men. No one I see uses the road.

On rides I'm self sufficient though always have few quid for a ice or something.

The re - celling of a pack is often not the issue, the replacement of a few cells may well be esp if none of the others are fully tested, which is why in most cases we advise posters not to replace cells. There was one recent post where someone had cells that were really bad and I think read 0v...