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People are blinkered when it comes to hub motors as they don't understand the rpm /speed of the motor winding. Hub motors come in various rpm windings from the factory, a higher rpm hub 280 - 330 rpm are for speed and lower torque ideal for faster flat riding with some low inclines. A 201 rpm...

Charge/balance the cells to 4.1v disconnect the BMS, leave cells to sit for 48hrs and see if any group self discharges.

The light front options are a serious and obvious contender for a town or flat commute bike with zero chain drive impact/wear.

Search the forum for Xiongda two speed hub it might be the answer for your needs. Does need a bit of technical expertise to strectch the rear forks to about 145 - 150mm.

6 - 7 miles up hill is a big ask for any motor, low gearing and a good cadence is essential. Gearing for BBS01 is vital if you don't want to fry the controller. You need to be very fit and a Hoy or a Thomas to climb that mileage with 10% inclines. With the hub motor you tried it really depends...

Beyone repairJimmy will strip it out and recell.

Front hub 1.2kg Aikema 75sx 100mm d/o 201rpm/36v. Front hub 1.7kg Bafang 320/250d 100mm d/o 201rpm/36v. Keyde rear cst with inbuilt controller 2.1kg, 205,225 or 250rpm/36v.

Cell heat damage esp from soldering is critical on the neg end, the centre of the cell base /neg end is a no go area. Copper braid although tinned still requires a lot of heat for decent joint. I would carefully check all parallel buss welds on each cell + & - end, use a sharpened wooden lolly...

The clutch there two types one key way post 2013/14 and ones pre this date have 4 key ways. The bearings have the part # etched on them. My Bafang CST uses these marked bearings, you need to confirm yours are the same befor blindly ordering. Freehub body 2 x 6092RS. LHS end bearing 6904RS...

Agree, any way probably not his car :eek: .

Great find .

Simple really for reliability any loose balls will seize and mash the internals.

Hubs have no adjustable beatings.

Not on the hubs I have taken apart, the RHS relies on the freehub/freewheel bearings. LHS has a press fit sealed bearing . The inner axle nut is there as a d/o spacer and to keep the seal in close contact to the bearing.

With hubs it really is dependant on the rpm and also the current. A low rpm hub will climb so much better then a faster one, thus would provide superior torch and nm through the gears.

I'M no engineer though believe some of the difference is down to final drive, hub is direct and mid drive is indirect as it has to go via the drive train.

The axle nut I mention is a cone type nut on the inside of the drop out on the LHS.

The winding or rpm may well be different. There is more to the clutch then the three nylon gears. The bearings are simple to replace, one on the LHS & one large dia central one. Plus a pair for hub body. The LHS has a washer/seal and a cone type nut this may have loosened.

It is likely a clutch issue and might need replacing.

The swept back bars might look odd esp when most bikes utilise straight or drops but these don't give a natural hand position. When sitting down /resting look at your wrist/hand position and the angle they sit at, then the logic of swept makes more sense.