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26" rear wheel vs 28" rear wheel. And I have to keep the motor happy in climbs that are almost always over 1 km long is my reasoning for 46:18.

You can keep as is with a mid-motor conversion. With a hub kit I would mount bigger tyres, you have 3 extra kgs in the hub.

Don't forget to fit a long mudguard! :rolleyes:

Come on flecc you can say old fashioned :p I answered on another thread. More shortcomings than advantages. I have seen uglier pedelecs, many of which are in production... Or on alibaba.

Having 3 kg in the front wheel helps keep it on the ground but... - even then you can spin it from a standing start in the wet - 3 kg plus the front wheel taking the brunt of potholes etc means watch your spokes, like before any long ride, and buy good tyres like the Schwalbe Marathons - I hate...

PHP :rolleyes:

So we had a few month back the promise of a bluetooth controller which to date is still not to be found in Europe. @mechaniker an update? We already have this http://www.topeak.com/products/PanoBikeAndRideCase/speed_cadence_sensor , a bluetooth speed and cadence sensor which is just asking to...

Company name?

OK so the idea of streamlining has crossed my mind. Weight? It has to be a monocoque structure and weigh as much as a bike frame would. It isn't as ugly as it could have been but where do I tuck my knees in downhill? Gearless 250 W motor, really? On hills, no thank you!!! Regenerative braking...

35 km/h is a bit slow for me, I like having something under foot up to 45 - 50 km/h. 46:11derailleur I am still pedalling at 55 kph. From what I understand a nexus 8 with 46:18 should be about right for me.

Directive 2002/24/EC Pedelecs with a maximum continuous rated power of more than 0.25 kW and all E-bikes that can be exclusively propelled by the motor do fall within the scope of Directive 2002/24/EC. In this Directive they are classified as low-performance mopeds, i.e. vehicles with pedals...

There are a couple under construction here and it is a money pit. I think you might be paying for the over budget expenditure... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPR_(nuclear_reactor)

Disclaimer: I am a satisfied Woosh client Very good, been around for a while and performance of all these 250 W mid motor kits is very similar. I have a Bafang clone, the GSM from Woosh who also do the Bafang and who have great support.

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_52&product_id=132 Weight: 4.9kg (22P and 25R), 5.2kg (29E, 32E and 30Q), not including charger or packaging.

Say you have a 250 W motor connected to a vanilla 14-15 Amp controller. You ride up a hill and ask for 396 Watts = 11 Amps x 36 Volts. With an 11 Ah battery you are drawing 1C (1 x capacity) and will experience some sag. With a 22 Ah battery you are drawing 0.5C and there will be much less...

About 7 kg. My 10.4 Ah bottle battery is 3.2 kg and the aluminium tube is probably 500 grams of that. 20.8 Ah of LiPo is under 6 Kg "naked"

Decommissioning has been factored into the cost of the kWh I am paying for to type this message. All my pedelec kilometers are nuclear or solar, there is no fossil fuel plant near where I live. There is a huge solar farm just up the road and on the other side the hills are covered with...

That is a good bike for the pedalease kit. If you don't have the proper tool you can ask your LBS to take the bottom bracket out. Then you need some Allen keys, spanner, screwdriver to mount everything.

Rule number one: there is no such thing as too much battery! And as @Nealh said if you are drawing 18-20 Amps from the battery it is going to be kinder on a 22 Amp one than on a 10 Amp one which will wear out much faster (less charge cycles) even if it is rated for 2C (2 x Amp rating)

We need to know what your bike is. Friction drives are good on paper rarely on the road.