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All I can say is the forum have given Op answers and advice leave it at that and let Op get the D/D hub he so wishes and then see if he comes back again for more advice if it fails to deliver or manage what he wants it to do.

I think Alan has posted on the wrong thread unless he has decided he no longer wants to be rogermunns :p.

What do you mean by 'freezes' with the old controller ? They can and do get very hot on full power (pas 5) and thermal cut out occurs when the fets get above there optimal heat range, once cooled down the system can be reset. I have never had this with my dual voltage 20 amp 6 fet one on my...

Depending on your usage if you ever need more range then you can currently get from the replacement SLA's, you can in the future if you keep the bike go for a retrofit 24v silver fish battery to fit behind the seat as yours is. A new lithium 15ah battery would come with a charger and new...

They were obviously in trouble as there Shoreham high street shop closed earlier this year. The company and brand have, I believe suffered badly and the issues with the impulse motor has been highlighted many times on here and in Germany. Any one who still buys one with an impulse drive need...

Get a dealer to give it a diagnostic test might charge you (£40 - £60) but the test will tell you how many charge cycles it has had and the health of the battery % wise giving you a capacity rating and whether it has lost any. Bosch aren't diy able and if not careful you could brick it...

If MM can access the 4 screws from underneath then he can remove the controller to gain access to the pair of screws arrowed. The set up is DASKIT stuff and also as mentioned the same as the Oxydrive kits now no longer available. My battery /controller connection never gave me any issue and I...

Even if the motor is brushed you can make the bike a few lbs lighter by using retrofitting a lion battery in the future if you wish to. As Kirstin knows the red bike (a rare piece of history) in my avatar uses a brushed motor, I have two one was lipo powered and one NiMh powered, both are now...

The Voilamart stand alone 250w hub is a geared hub , the 250/1000w kit is a switchable gearless D/D hub.

I made a crude ali leverage tool to undo my cover plate and a thump or two with a rubber mallet to budge it and found it quite easyto open. A half moon shape to go around the freehub and a two holes to align with the those as seen in the pic.

Show us pics of the old one and it's charger it may be a Lithium phosphate aka lifepo4 celled battery, hence the weight difference.

Looks like the mating connection is fused together, either the pins have been fused by possible cross polarity or corrosion may have stuck them together. The battery connection with the v+/v- attached should disconnect and is a two piece male/female connection. You may be able to remove the...

Could be down to moisture ingress, any ingress can cause a track from contact with any copper and can short from one contact to another.

Yes it needs soldering back in place other wise is will cause a short if it contacts something else, that pad is marked B+. I have my pair of old cases so will see if the BMS is still with them or not to check on the wire location as the battery is the same Daskit one used on the Oxydrive kits.

If you change controller then it will also mean a compatible lcd is required, I doubt you will get a Bafang one on it's own. Bafang use Higo connectors (similar to Julet) except the pin outs are sequenced differently. It will mean you need new pas sensor and throttle and 1t4 or 1t5 trunk cable...

As I mentioned you don't have to change the hub motor, if you want more power you need more current.

Very little spec to the battery except it is 10.4ah which probably suggests it is a 10s4p config and likely uses something like Samsung 26F or J cells in which case the they are maxed out with the current controller.

Ah yes, I now remember your bike was in a thread the other day. Can you post a link again to the bike then we might be able to see what the battery cell specs might be. Your controller is a Bafang compatible one that works with 961 lcd, at 15 amps max is should put out about 430w at the wheel...

We like to help, we are cheaper then a bike shop.

Double check the P1 setting is the same.