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Simply getting a 500w hub won't give you any more power as you will still be using the same controller current, your best option is to show us a pic of your controller. A new controller with more current will give you more watts at the wheel ( if the battery is capable ) and you can still keep...

D/D hubs are ok if you know what you are doing, invariably it means a very good battery that can handle the extra amps required to make them come alive. You need to try one up a hill and then try one with no power just in case you were to run out of battery. Most issues with geared hubs result...

I new there was some hand shaking somewhere and as you mention I now recall the battery/charger have it.

My Yose hub (now retired for now) has worked with three KT controllers and phase C2 /0 has always been the default quiet and correct setting, I have tried some other settings and it certainly alters phase combo's for the worse.

Looks good plenty of chain wheel clearance to rear stay. The only thing you may find is the inside of the BB shell may need cleaning up (weld nibs removing or over any weld ) with a file or Dremel type tool.

Nothing wrong with your battery 30 miles is pretty good for 300wh and works out at about 10 - 10.4wh per mile usage rate. The figures quoted for range are like saying how long is a piece of string , as for the figures we haven't clue how they are calculated. Most quoted figures are minimum...

Look under the bottom bracket/crank area and look for a pedal sensor and a magnet disc, the gap between sensor and passing magnets should 1 - 2mm also check alignment and that the sensor doesn't rotate as well.

The behind the seat type are usually of the Silverfish type which can be seen for sale on ebay.

TBK is now a really proper one stop shop for all kit needs now, loads on offer. Good selection of AKM hubs and the AKM bbs clone as well as the usual mid drives. Controllers as well. BMS galore with many options and also batteries, looks like the Panny 3200mh BD is their flavour of the month at...

Bosch use different cells in there batteries. ES seller Tumich gets hold of various cells from Bosch. The Kalkhoff BS10 6 years ago used Samsung 10a 22P cells.

Yes I did, the lcd4 might appeal for a less cluttered cockpit though for me I like to have my voltage and watts viewable. Also that dinky 2.1kg cst hub with int sinewave controller, a bit pricey though at $299 + $$$ extra for lcd option. 210, 225 & 250rpm versions. These guys have really upped...

AKM 128 cst is cheaper at TOPBIKEKIT and they list 3 windings 201, 260 & 328.

P1 84. Unless something is a miss and phase's have been connected incorrect C2/0 should be default.

Last time I looked prices up a bit now $200/£151 inc delivery.

Yes from Wisper.

The battery you want is a 09 case /dolphin battery and are quite common many outlets sell them. You can't use a 48v battery unless you know the controller can handle the extra voltage some can/some can't. Capacity wise you can use any 36v x ah /wh's you like, extra an/wh's simply give you more...

My Bafang cassette freehub body simply slides off . The Q's are clones or the real deal form Aikema so the threaded option may be an in house design and machined by AKM.

Good job Barod, having tried twice I hadn't figured it was threaded. Do yo know how easily the lbs managed to remove it ? I haven't actually looked to deep in the freehub body but assume there must be an Allen key socket in there for a 10 or12 mm key ? Some here on SJS though thread dia looks...

Adjust P5 setting to 9 or 10 to see if that helps otherwise ignore it and use the real time voltage level readout.

You don't need to use PAS 5 whilst commuting or in traffic, it is asking for trouble. I very rarely use it on my bikes except for the occasional hill when I'm tired after a long ride.