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If it is just the lights that don't switch off and everything else works just use a simple in line switch or a Wuxing handle bar light switch. Use a light with an internal buck converter with 6 v - 60v range...

You need a Bafang compatible controller to use with the 961, problem might be finding one. Other wise it may be easier to upgrade the controller with Keunteng/KT one and an lcd3 or lcd8.

Ok more info more of a complete story. Usually there is a wire/connection fault between battery and lcd or the lcd is faulty. Battery supplies a feed to the lcd which then communicates with the controller. Double check all wire connectors for a loose connection or wire.

Probably needs a new battery, 40.4v generally isn't a sign of a healthy battery. Could be that cell or two has failed or balance is out causing lvc to cut in pretty instantly when you switch on.

With the Alfine the grease can dry out a bit the cheapest answer is to syringe max 25ml of auto transmission fluid in to the lhs side, this mixes with and softens the shimano grease.

More likely you will damage the forks or they will fail, the rear hub or mid drive is the way to go.

Take a pic of the controller label/legend on it and one of the lcd and post them here, the lcd looks very much like c961 as found on BBS01/02 kits.

250w motors and their wattage output is dependant on the controller amps and the battery being able to supply the power asked. 12 - 17a is the range of likely controllers to be found in use and occasionally 20a, if you use 48v then power output can be up in the high 100's in high power mode.

The kit from what I see looks as if it is a Bafang.

Speed sensor isn't required if the hub motor has an internal sensor. LCD has 5 PAS assist levels set to approx. 13%,20%, 33%, 50% & 100%. Other main screen functions are watt/voltage reading, trip, odo, speed . Speed setting can be changed to (in most cases) max out the hubs windings/rpm speed...

A simpler answer is if you have strong legs and good stamina then torque PAS is as near to normal ride input, though if you tire or run out of puff they are not so advantageous. A cadence PAS allows one to ghost pedal/merely rotate the pedals for assistance, as above if you want to step on the...

Hub motors are very reliable and give a nicer ride for leisure and pottering about riding, my hubs are use for longer rides and my rides are very rarely less then 100km/60 miles.

The KT controller in the link in #132 has a light output but relies on a switch for the light, unless yiu have constant running one, the lcd hasn't got light switching capability. KT rely on a separate switch like the handle bar Wuxing type you can get, the light needs to be a 6v - 60v type.

Yew Tree as you are in Norwich still a fair few miles from Woosh in Southend, it might be worth a visit down to them. They sell and fit kits as well as some sturdy built e- bikes.

15.5mph is the assisted speed limit so anything above legally is without any assist power.

I have done the same as AK before but also have added a switch near by to the controller and a smll amperage fuse in line.

That's a great tip Harry .

peter.collard@performancelinebearings.com Contact the bearing man regarding the Haibike and he will be able to discuss with you your issue and give an idea of any repair cost to the drive motor. With regards to a town/errand ebike you may well find better reliability with a rear hub drive bike...

If you are slow rider it usually means a slow cadence/ pedal rpm so the Torque sensing might not be your best option, but to know for sure you will need to test ride both Torque sensing mid drive and cadence sensing hub bikes.

As mentioned it depends on you riding style/usage and fitness. Pro's and con's for both types of system as well as mid drive vs hub. The sporty rider will prefer a mid drive, a town/commuter may find a hub more relaxing.