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Does the handle bar display work/switch on ? Also can you post a pics of the bike esp aound the crank/chain ring area form both sides.

My BBS 36V controller only had 50v caps.

And there was me thinking we could just plant our 18650 cells like trees to absorb C02 then realised 18650's don't have leaves :(.

Nuke can buy the KT controller /lcd with pedal sensor for about 100 euros so quite a cheap conversion, the AKM has an internal speed sensor so that is sorted.

The repair/fault then was simple and likely just a bad connection, though could be an intermittent wire fault. If the connector is the small Black or white SM type connector sometimes the pins /barbs aren't always inserted correctly and can back out.

The only problem with hubs gears is they straight away make the use of very good rear motor hubs non viable.

A Kuenteng KT controlelr and lcd3 with PAS 8 or 10 pole will work and many of us use or have used that system, commonly avaialable form Ali express or various online e-bike shops sucu as BMSBattery, PSWPower, Topbike kit, Greenbike kit. It may be possible that the existing chainrings and cranks...

Sound like the Op (Nuke) hasn't got the skills to carry out repairs so looks as if he or she is relying on finding a good independent, a dealer likely hasn't the skills to fault find and repair be honest in my view.

The Thule Pack n Pedal rack work really well if you have no boss's but isn't cheap. If you have no boss's you can buy clamp on boss's to overcome.

Also follow and check the sensor wiring to it's connector for damage, if a three pin SM block connector make sure no pin has backed out or wire is loose.

Most bike shops selling ebikes don't get involved in kits and or diagnostics unless a brand dealer for Bosch/Yamaha etc,etc, so may not have the necessary to just test a hub motor on it's own, pretty sure there not going to mess with another hub bike to find out. Nuke needs to find an...

The main issue is the bike shop has no way of getting spares as they are not a dealer or have the contacts of the distributor /supplier, it also means they wil have little/no knowledge of the system in use. It is hard and harsh to blame a bike shop for not knowing the bike and to be fair to them...

They have their uses if a throttle is fitted and a fault develops.

The TS PAS sensor is all enclosed with in the unit on the inside of the chainring and is a digital input, it is wired to the special Bottom bracket which has sensors on each side to measure crank pressure/input. This information is then sent to the controller, they are more expensive and less...

TS sensors detect pressure/input from both cranks so if one side fails you will still get 50% of your assisted input.

Aikema hubs have no issues working with KT controllers my one worked nicely with my 6 fet dual voltage one and now my 9 fet one. The issue with your set up might be the PAS which is a torque sensor set up so the controller is also a TS version, TS isn't commonly used with hubs and causes more...

If I remember rightly to remove the cabled sensor complete with julet connector, remove the pin and circlip to remove the lever. The cable entry has a small threaded plastic bezel undo this and slide a long the cable carefully then nip off the bezel with cutters, grease the julet outer with...

Looks like you have a good relationship with your dealer, worth it's wait in gold.

The display is likely the cause, the controller takes it commands from it as it does from the PAS via the signal wire.

Using cut offs isn't necessary for motor stop as the KT PAS time stop/decay is quite quick and not required if a throttle isn't fitted. The brakes may over power the motor but in a case when a short causes max power you will burn out the controller if you fit a throttle. This is unlikely with...