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Mid drive bikes use torque sensing to multiply your input most hub bikes use cadence sensing so only needs to see pedal rotation (or ghost pedalling), there use is very different. Someone with weak legs or lack of stamina would not like the former.

Can of Black rattle will soon sort colour out or swap over internals. With a multimeter/volt meter. Red and Black probe one each on the discharge points, If you get a voltage reading with a minus in front of it then you have the probes on the wrong way. Use tippex to mark +/- on battery and cradle.

Check the output voltage on your charger plugged in to the mains and switched on, if it reads 54.6v then it is ok. The battery charge issue could be a charge fuse but might also be a low cell group, if the latter the BMS will not allow charging until the low voltage is above the lvc threshold.

Look on ebay for Silverfish battery.

As vfr has stated you will have to look at the PSWPower controllers page, click the correct thumb nail for a close up of the wiring order and connector used. Their is little in the way of standardisation between manufacturers, even with Julet some sellers fit opposing/male /female connectors to...

720w is the figure the controller can output, once you factor in efficiency loss the figure will be about 550- 570w at the wheel, still a useful push in your back.

Wire length not importatnt as only 4.2v and milliamps are carried along them they don't physically carry any charge, as for monitoring only. Splicing wire I find solder and shrink pretty simple and cheap.

That's where 48v is a better option then 36v as you will have 33% more torque, battery wise the same ah/capacity will give you 33% more wh of range.

As long as your battery is 36v it will work, the greater capacity just means greater range. Always with a battery no matter where sourced check and make sure polarity is correct otherwise you will blow the controller.

The ebay ones all come with a fitting kit and a charger so if the battery doesn't quite marry up with the existing docking plate then any competent person should be able to make the switch if need be. Obviously checking polarity is a must no matter where the battery is sourced.

You need yo dump the Lishui or whatever it is and fit a KT with a simple lcd1 or 2 if you want throttle only.

K is this the battery from Peter ? If so and arrangements are made as previously then I can pick up from Peter nr Gatwick for you.

Good point, regulation means new bikes after 2016 are programmed to only work on throttle once the pedals have been rotated (could be as little as 1/2 roatation).

You will need heatshrink tube. Before soldering you have to identify the wire sequence correctly other wise it won't work. In the one I linked to the Blue is signal, Yellow gnd and red 5v. Before soldering you have to slide a large size of heat shrink up the wire out of the way and then as you...

If any air void is present in the reservoir it will naturally head to the high point (calliper) if bike up turned so yes a soft lever can occur, pumping it once turn right again often sorts it out

As Pete has indicated get the battery checked first to make sure it holds a charge and the voltage is good. You don't need the complete control kit at £65 so if need be buy from the original source at Giant, the Crawley address is just a guy selling from his 2 bed flat. If the battery is no...

Ignore the White cable, it is a programming data cable. As it is the pictures aren't very clear and we need to see better quality pics with the wiring spread out a bit better. Your controller if it has no spare 3 wire connector then doesn't and can't support a throttle. A lot of bikes have...

TDSZ mid drive from Woosh is also 250w and more powerful at 48v.

Your battery is also known as a Silverfish and plenty on ebay, for your usage and your history and as you say you will likely not use it that much a cheaper solution won't be such a waste of money and makes more sense...

Your 250w motor probably did offer more grunt but you need a watt meter to see it. Higher assist will have pulled more amps, if you have 36v and a15a controller then you would for a short time pull in region of 400+w.