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All my rims are twin walled it is a standard on most ebikes, I always work with wheel at 1 o'clock and if you use long nipples 14mm they don't push up past the rim tape. If using short nipples a pair of long nose pliers can be used to hold the nipple once the spoke is ready to be inserted. The...

If the hub dia is larger then the cassette then you can replace spokes with wheel in situ, depending on the brake rotor you can sometimes pass the spoke through the rotor cut outs or simply unbolt the rotor to allow spoke access. For 2mm spoke tension I use 160 -180kgf on the rhs and 120 -...

They are cheap, the price tells you that they are likely not top cells. 12.5a rating is an unusual one, the company is K Tech Energy technology Co Ltd. It is subsidiary of Greenway Battery .com the parent company. No one really knows as they haven't been tried /tested yet.

Jimmy at ebikebatteries .co.uk can recell them, he did my brothers Bosch battery as the capacity was waning after 4 -5 years use on his S -ped Kalhoff.

How bad is wheel for true ? Is it very noticeable ? For spokes 12g (2.6mm), 13g (2.3mm) or using 14g(2mm) shouldn't pose any issues as a replacement. You will need to remove one good spoke and measure from the end to the inside of the J bend for length, it is a skill worth acquiring and...

P1 84 should cut out at about 15.7mph with 25km/h set in the speed setting, if so P1 calibration is about spot on and you can then set speed higher if you like knowing it is pretty accurate. P2 1 or if it doesn't read free wheeling P2 6. P6 is a special mode for the cylotricity D/D hub only, it...

On mtb I use a 34t and 48t and used a cheap spider adapter for BBS drives, added a front derailleur and it worked well. I had to play with spacers/washers between the adapter to prevent inner ring fowling the BBS casing. the only issue might be chain alignment if you use rear 8/9spd gears so you...

I tow a trailer with two of my bikes and use the CarryFreedom large has 80kg payload. As mentioned it is about getting the hitch attachment that suits your bike, axle end hitch are the most convenient. Most std 9mm hitches can be drill out to fit 12mm hub motors like mine in the pic #4 in the...

If you play around and have spare crank sets/ std chain rings you can add a double up front 34t being the smallest, though you need a spider adapter.

None of my current controllers have that option so must be a new setting on later/new firmware versions.

The Cylotricity internally probably isn't going to be geared much differently but expect the motor RPM was a faster wind 330 - 350rpm so this would have made it poorer at climbing .

The cheap ones tend to have speed control only so you get max current in each PAS level (might be 3 pas or 5PAS) with each PAS level having a max terminal assist speed, max current all the time eats in to battery capacity so you can't control the range as well and provides a less leisurely ride...

KT controllers are a lot more frugal in there lower assist levels but are no way sluggish barring maybe PAS 1, there % current settings PAS1 - PAS5 are 13%, 20%, 33%, 50% & 100%.

Give it 2 - 5 years and they will be legal to use in one way or another. Seen a few of late in my area the issue with them though is the speed esp on paths as they and pedestrians aren't going yo mix well.

My 29e's Kirstin are both over 5 years old now. A few years ago when I derestricted the GSM, it appeared that the cells /batteries did suffer and lost a bit of capacity but they are still going quite well and still give me over 30 miles of range but I have to use them in PAS 2 only. Which is...

Nearly all the Silverfish ones I see for sale inc the fitting kit and the charger.

It is said you need to leave TSDZ for 30 seconds after switching on without touching the cranks to allow for system initialising/calibration then you should be good to go.

We had said this many times when buying a controller (a different brand) you need to buy a display that is compatible as a pair. The white hall wire is for a speed sensor and not a temp sensor.

The battery you have is generic cased one known as a SIlverfish and is available from ebay and other places, you can by any 36v one of any AH capacity. From what you say either a cell or parallel string of cells has died or has a bad connection, if you are capable of tinkering or have a friend...

Check that your battery is actually charging to 41.5v or more with a multi meter, if the lcd says 40.6v then it is usually correct and accurate. Charge your battery then measure the voltage with a meter also check the voltage output of the charger.