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I went earlier in the afternoon to order my Casco. And they had a damned Giant Quick-e in the window, b@stards... :mad: Besides the front light and the pedals (both easy to fix) I couldn't spot any faults, damnation...

I looked at that one too but the Casco is better finished inside, price is much of a muchness. My current 15€ Decathlon BMX helmet hurts my head so interior comfort was the main factor of choice.

The other day I came upon specialised spot welders that do 18650 cells and... lipo pouch tabs! $280 delivered. A cottage industry idea immediately sprang to mind.

They should be able to answer your questions about the code. As the page says: "I want this bike"! A top assisted speed of 35 km/h would be perfect.

He doesn't seem to know much about the European bike industry. Maybe someone should tell him that frame factories are moving back from third world countries to places like Portugal and The Czech Republic and (gasp) France has always had a frame factory which is capable of churning out bikes that...

I think the code is in an eprom and you should be able to change the battery without losing the code. Parallel connection would mean you need both batteries to be charged to exactly the same voltage can you still do that?

We crossed a jogger wearing a mask the other day. SWMBO was slightly scared by the look until I said "pollen season". I myself walk and cycle with my mouth closed, breathing through the nose, because I am allergic to grass pollen too. But I have had a few bumble bee strikes since the beginning...

Can't you just work around the code thing by installing a new battery and a controller that is compatible with the motor?

A Wattmeter between the battery and the controller. You don't have to look at it all the time it will record max A and max W.

The power cut-out feeling is only really perceived when you are riding at a speed just around that cut-out point. If you are still accelerating at that point (down hill, on a flat portion of road) you just pedal over and beyond without feeling it. If you are worried about feeling it you will, if...

I would say that before, the controller was spending more time handling the lack of sufficient Amps from the battery situation than it was supplying what it did have to the motor.

What LCD do you have plugged into the controller? There is means of reducing Amps out in the C configuration section of the common LCD-3's. My 15 Amp controller is tuned down to 12 Amps because I don't need the extra Watts for the time being (I'm quite fit) and I am looking for extra range from...

The article just popped up on my news-feed. "These extra emissions are almost equal to the toxic particulates saved by reduced engine use, ..." So if I apply logic to the above sentence: - an electric car makes almost as much non engine generated particle pollution as the particle pollution of a...

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hydraulik-Bremssensoren-Set-fur-8Fun-Bafang-Mittelmotor-E-Bike-Elektrofahrrad-/282017161719?hash=item41a98861f7:g:y-YAAOSwubRXHknF I have lost the bookmark (new hard drive) for the Dutch company that does the Bafang accessories, sorry.

Yeah, you wouldn't want to buy them from the EU... :rolleyes: They are available in Germany and the Netherlands.

Buses In Bayonne (tiny town) are electric, buses in Nantes (big city) are hybrid or hydrogen fuel cell, buses in ... I thought electric or fuel cell buses were a done deal? Well in the EU they are :rolleyes:

I've been cycling in sandals all week :p Yes I have done a couple of km barefoot with these pedals very comfy :D

The hitch won't fit with or without the torque arm on the other side... I would have to mill off about 1-2 mm to fit a torque arm which seems kind of counter productive. Aren't the drop outs milled from flat sheet then welded in?

- Because the frame was free, - because I need to mount a trailer hitch and I don't think the axle is long enough with a torque arm as well, - because with this much material and a carefully enlarged drop-out I think the risk is minimal (road use only). There, three good reasons :D

Aluminium frame with 7 mm thick drop-outs, rear 250 W hub - 705 W peak with battery hot off the charger. I am tempted to go without a torque arm because the material is thick all around the drop-out. Opinions?