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Sicone is more flexible and won't crack.

If you want supply wires for lights you will have to feed two wires through the end where the other three cables exit and then solder each wire to the V+ & V- pins. You can use black cable for both if you want but make sure the V+ one you place a bit of red heat shrink on it on the outside of...

You are assuming which is dangerous when lithium is involved, you need to check and double check with any unknown bike or purchase. Simply taking someone's word you have to take all with a pinch of salt. At the end of the day no matter what you say the mistake is yours.

In #1 the JPG clearly shows polarity is incorrect, so before connecting the wiring on the bike needed reversing to match the battery pin out. The error/mistake is still yours IMHO.

If you saw big sparks then the polarity was wrong when connecting the battery. With any new battery (esp non oem ones) you can't simply rely on polarity is in correct order, you have to physically check & test polarity is correct before connecting. It is up to the end user to ensure they...

Some of us need sleep !!!

The thick B- goes to battery pack minus/cell group #1/0v. The thick Red positive wire from cell group #10 should be connected to a discharge connector like a XT60 or XT90 along with thick P- from BMS, in turn this is connected to the controller ( battery Red should not go directly to the motor)...

Forget silly diagrams show us a pics of you battery and BMS connected.

That light will not require a step down converter as it is already rated for dual voltage.

Found what ? No link !!!

If the BMS gets hot then it must be wired wrong. Show us some clear pics of your actual bms wired up and not diagrams from the seller. Also make sure we can see the connector block on the BMS so we can verify that you have wired the sense wires correctly. B- or B0 on the JST connector should be...

Looking at the attachment in #4, wired up as I see it is /looks all wrong to me. B- should be wired to 0v/ neg end of group 1 and not group 10. B1 - B10 are all arse about face.

Take it to the dealer for repair under warranty, sounds like a display fault and it also sounds like it is drawing low power when supposedly off. The systems on these OEM bikes are closed so not a lot you can do rectify it.

Internally V+/V- pins should be wired with correct colours Red/Black or pcb will be marked.If your lights are 12-60/80v then they will already have a step down converter inside if they are solely 6 or 12v only you will need a step down converter. The stand alone KT controllers have a wired...

Woosh bikes /Southend.

You will need to solder two wires, one to the V+ & one to the V- terminals . Make sure they are long enough and the red one can reach the switch wherever it is placed. Fit a cheap toggle or push switch after the fuse from the controller on the V+ line. Switching only needs to happen on the V+...

Eddies suggestion is a good sound check and would do that first then use a test ride to find out.

I use a few sources I have and they all read within 0.01v, so accept all are fairly accurate when used on a new or newish 18650 fully charged.

On my local commute errand bike I don't bother with separate lights and use fixed lights, front and rear are 12 - 80v rated so simple to wire in via the switch I linked to and uses the KT controller with lights output. My Swizzbee's both have oem fixed lighting and my other bikes I use battery...

If not keen on separate lights then you have no choice but to open the controller (4 screws) and solder a pair of wires to the existing battery discharge connections inside the controller, you only need to use thin 20/22awg silicone wire as little in the way of amps will be drawn. Silicone wire...